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Auto-Trail • Motorhome • 2005
7291410 FAQs5 Types
Complete guide — 95 diagnostic faults and 10 FAQs across 5 categories, assembled from every category document and cross-referenced part covering this exact edition.
Official manual on Auto-Trail's site:View PDF ↗
SargentEC200 Series Systems
Battery Charger / Power Management11442 FAQs
EC200 Series Systems
Battery Charger / Power ManagementTechnical Specifications
Integrated Battery Chargerup to 200 watts
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | No 240V power - the hook-up lead isn't connected between the site and the vehicle | The hook-up lead from the site to the vehicle isn't plugged in. | Plug the hook-up lead in at both ends, following the mains hook-up steps, and make sure it's pushed fully into the socket on the bottom of the PSU2007 too. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 240 volt output - RCD switched off | RCD switched off. | Reset the RCD as per the mains connection instructions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 240 volt output - RCD not operating correctly | RCD not operating correctly. | Check the supply's polarity. If the RCD keeps tripping, there's most likely a wiring or equipment fault, so call your dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 240 volt output - MCB switched off | MCB switched off. | Reset the MCB: switch it off (down), then on again (up). If it keeps tripping, there's most likely a wiring or equipment fault, so call your dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 240V power - the site's supply is off or too weak | No or deficient supply from the site. | Contact the site warden for assistance. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | No 240 volt output - other fault | Other fault. | Contact your dealer. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | No 12V power - there's no mains (240V) supply | No 240v supply. | Check the 240V supply first: the hook-up lead is plugged in at both ends (including the socket on the bottom of the PSU2007), the RCD and MCB are both switched on (reset either one if it has tripped), and the site's own supply is actually live. If the site's supply is the problem, ask the site warden for help; if none of these is the cause, contact your dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 12 volt output - charger not switched on | Charger not switched on. | Turn the charger switch to on (I); it lights up when it is on. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12 volt output - battery not connected and/or charged | Battery not connected and/or charged. | Install a charged battery as per the battery type/selection instructions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12V power - the control panel's power switch is off | The control panel's power switch is off. | Turn the power on at the control panel. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12V power - the battery is flat or its fuse has blown | Battery flat or battery fuse blown. | Recharge the battery, check the fuses, and confirm charging voltage is actually reaching the battery. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12 volt output - fuse blown | Fuse blown. | Make sure every fuse is sound and is the rating shown in the vehicle's fuse table. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12 volt output - equipment switched off / unplugged | Equipment switched off or unplugged. | Make sure the appliance is switched on and plugged into the 12V supply. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12 volt output - other fault | Other fault. | Contact your dealer. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Control panel has no display | Batteries discharged, PSU2007 charger switch off, or mains supply not connected. | Check the batteries, switch the PSU2007's charger on and make sure the mains supply is plugged in. Then check the control panel's connecting lead, both at the PSU2007 and behind the panel. If it still won't work, contact your dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | 12v power turns off unexpectedly | Either the battery-save feature has cut in to protect the vehicle battery (because the leisure battery is flat), or the engine has been started, which switches all the equipment off to meet EMC rules. | This is normal protective behaviour in both cases - no fault action needed. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control panel display corrupt / erratic function | Display fault or the control panel needs rebooting. | Reboot the control panel: pull its bezel down and lift it forward to take it off, remove the two fixing screws and unplug the panel's lead. After half a minute, plug it back in and put it back together. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control panel contrast poor | Contrast preset needs adjusting. | Observe the control panel handling instructions. Take off the control panel bezel and undo the two fixing screws to bring the panel out, but don't unplug it. Adjust the contrast preset on the back of the control panel using a jeweller's screwdriver. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control panel current reading incorrect | Current sensor needs calibrating. | Contact your dealer for the current calibration process. | Professional Intervention Required |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is it possible to charge the vehicle (starter) battery using my system?
Whether you can depends on which type of Sargent PSU system you have - manual-charging or CAN-bus based.
On systems that only charge manually - PSU2007 with EC200, EC328, EC325, EC225 with EC100, EC176 with EC361/2/3, and EC155 with EC50/51 - the leisure battery is charged by default: with the control panel switched off, the mains charger starts charging the leisure battery the moment it's plugged in, and with the panel on, it keeps the leisure battery topped up while also powering the leisure loads. To charge the vehicle battery instead, switch the control panel on and pick the vehicle battery - the charger then charges that battery along with any leisure loads left switched on. Note that EC100, EC200, EC325 and EC50/51 panels won't allow the vehicle battery to be selected below 10.9V, while EC328 panels (software V2.21) will allow it above 2V provided the mains charger is on. If mains power is lost while charging the vehicle battery, leisure loads will start drawing from it instead - switching back to the leisure battery once the vehicle battery either falls below the 10.9V cut-off or, if it started above that, once it recovers back up to 10.9V. The leisure battery itself has its own 9V cut-off that disconnects leisure loads to stop it discharging further.
CAN-bus systems (the EC800, EC700, EC600, EC500, EC450 and EC400) include a smart-charge feature instead, on by default but switchable off. With the mains charger on, it defaults to charging the leisure battery while keeping an eye on the vehicle battery - if that drops below 12.4V, charging switches to it for 4 hours, then returns to the leisure battery for another 4 hours, repeating the cycle for as long as the vehicle battery stays low. This runs regardless of whether the control panel is on, as long as the system's own shutdown button is switched in (unless you've disabled the feature) - and if the panel is on, you can manually pick whichever battery you want charged at any point in the cycle.
Q: Why do the LEDs on my EC155 control panel flash while I'm driving?
On newer panels with blue LEDs, seeing the Leisure select & levels and Vehicle select & levels LEDs both flashing while you drive is completely normal - it just means the EC155 is picking up the engine run signal, so its internal split-charge relay has engaged. On older panels with green LEDs, the same thing is shown by the middle yellow LED flashing instead.
Either way, once the EC155 detects that engine run signal, it also switches off the 12V supply to the living area.
Auto-TrailGas Supply System (Motorhome, 2005 Model Year)
Gas Regulator / Supply2000 FAQs
Gas Supply System (Motorhome, 2005 Model Year)
Gas Regulator / SupplyMaster Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | The gas flame lifts clear of the burner instead of sitting on it. | Gas pressure is too high | Recheck the regulator, cylinders and pipes and adjust as necessary. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Yellow flame causing soot | Gas pressure is too low | Recheck the regulator, cylinders and pipes and adjust as necessary. | DIY Safe |
TrumaTrumavent TEB-3 / TN-3 Fan
Space Heater Accessory / Fan1102 FAQs
Trumavent TEB-3 / TN-3 Fan
Space Heater Accessory / FanTechnical Specifications
Operating Voltage12V DC / 230V AC
Power Consumption0.2 to 1.2 A (TEB-3) / 0.5 A (TN-3)
Fuse Ratings2.5 A (medium time-lag, 5 x 20 mm)
Dimensions Cutout211 x 279 x 145 mm (TEB-3) / 211 x 279 x 158 mm (TN-3)
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | Control panel is without function and the fan runs in the reverse direction | Incorrect polarity of the control panel and power supply connectors | Plug the control panel and power supply connectors back in the right way round - with the polarity reversed, the panel won't work and the fan turns backwards. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Fan does not operate | Blown appliance fuse (F1) or disconnected power supply | Disconnect the fan from its power supply, check fuse F1 on the electronic control unit, and fit an identical replacement (2.5A, medium time-lag). Have a specialist carry out repairs if the problem continues. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What heaters are compatible with the TEB-3 and TN-3 fans?
These fans are designed for installation on Truma S 3004 or S 5004 heaters.
Q: What type of fuse is required for the TEB-3 12V model?
A medium time-lag 2.5A fuse (5 x 20mm) to EN 60127-2-3 - e.g. ESKA 521021 or Littelfuse 233 02.5P.
TrumaUltraheat electric additional heater
Space Heater Accessory / Booster3105 FAQs
Ultraheat electric additional heater
Space Heater Accessory / BoosterTechnical Specifications
Power Consumption 230v500 W (2.2 A) / 1000 W (4.5 A) / 2000 W (8.5 A)
Weight Kgca. 2 kg
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
Even with Ultraheat switched on, the control panel's green LED stays dark | No 230 V~ power supply available to the unit. | — | Check 230 V~ power supply: verify if other 230 V~ appliances work in the vehicle, check if the line power cable is connected, check if the campsite fuse/circuit breaker has tripped, check if the vehicle residual current circuit-breaker (FI) or distribution board fuses have tripped. | DIY Safe |
Unusual noises or smells | Potential obstruction, dust accumulation, or overheating condition. | — | Turn off the gas supply, the heater and Ultraheat, and have a qualified expert check the system. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
Even with Ultraheat switched on, the control panel's green LED stays unlit. | No 230V power supply is available or reaching the device. | — | Check the 230V power supply: verify if other 230V appliances in the vehicle work, ensure the line power cable is connected, check if the campsite fuse box has tripped, and inspect the vehicle's internal 230V distribution board fuses and residual current circuit-breaker (RCCB). | DIY Safe |
N/A | Damage from improper cable routing or fan operation | Cables routed too close to hot parts, or the fan run without the proper warm-air ducts directing hot air onto the control unit. | Route cables away from hot parts and ensure the correct warm-air ducts are fitted before running the fan. | DIY Safe |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I use Ultraheat with older Truma S heaters like the Trumatic S 3002?
No - Ultraheat can't be used with any S-heater built before 04/2012, nor with the Trumatic S 3002, S 3002 P, S 5002, S 2200, S 55 T, or S 3002 K / S 5002 K.
Q: What fan setting should be used during electrical mode?
On electrical mode, run the fan at level 3 or above (manual or automatic) to spread warm air through the vehicle quickly and evenly.
Q: Can the Ultraheat be operated separately outside of a Truma S-heater?
No - Ultraheat (the electric additional heater) is only approved for fitting and running inside a compatible S-heater, never on its own or outside a vehicle.
Q: What power settings are available on the Ultraheat?
The additional heater features three operating power levels: 500 Watts, 1000 Watts, and 2000 Watts.
Q: Can the S-heater run on gas and the electric Ultraheat together?
Yes - the S-heater can run on gas while the electric additional heater runs too, though the additional heater may cut out on its own to guard against overheating.
ThetfordN145/N150/N180 Refrigerator (Auto-Trail & Auto-Sleepers/Coachman fitment, 2004-2010)
Fridge / Freezer9290 FAQs
N145/N150/N180 Refrigerator (Auto-Trail & Auto-Sleepers/Coachman fitment, 2004-2010)
Fridge / FreezerTechnical Specifications
Usable Capacity Inc Freezer145 litres
Freezer Capacity25 litres
Electricity Consumption4.0 kW/24hr (average, 25C ambient)
Gas Consumption0.42 kg/24hr (average, 25C ambient)
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | The fridge fails to work | — | Ensure the correct procedure has been followed for starting the refrigerator. Check that the fridge is level. Ascertain whether it is possible to run the fridge on any of the energy sources. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge fails to work using gas | Empty gas bottle or a closed LP gas valve. | Make sure the gas bottle is not empty. Make sure all LP gas valves are open. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge does not work on 12V | No 12V supply, a blown fuse, or the 12V switch is off. | Check the 12V supply is connected to the refrigerator. Ensure the fuse on the 12V supply is intact. Check the 12V switch is on. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge fails to work on 230V | No 230V supply or a blown fuse. | Check the 230V supply is connected to the fridge. Make sure the fuse is intact. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge is not cold enough | Inadequate ventilation (partial blockage of the grilles), a frosted-up evaporator, incorrect temperature control setting, incorrect gas pressure, or ambient temperature too high. | Check ventilation passages/grilles are not blocked. Check the evaporator for frost build-up. Check the temperature control setting. Check the gas pressure regulator at the gas container. Be aware very high ambient temperatures can reduce cooling performance. | DIY Safe |
1 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 1 (AC heater low current) | AC heating element drawing lower current than expected. | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
2 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 2 (DC heater low current) | DC heating element drawing lower current than expected. | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
3 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 3 (AC heater ON, should be OFF) | AC heater failing to switch off correctly. | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
4 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 4 (DC heater ON, should be OFF) | DC heater failing to switch off correctly. | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
5 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 5 (senses flame when gas should be OFF) | Flame sensor detecting a flame that should not be present. | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
6 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 6 (senses gas output terminal ON when should be OFF) | Gas output terminal fault. | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
7 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 7 (senses gas output terminal OFF when should be ON) | Gas output terminal fault. | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
8 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 8 (AC mains supply is 20% below nominal) | Controls are in manual AC mode but the voltage supply is too low. | Check 230V is plugged in - if so, the voltage supply is too low. Contact the site owner. | DIY Safe |
9 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 9 (gas lock-out because flame fails to ignite after 30 seconds) | Controls are in manual gas mode but the flame fails to ignite - gas cylinder empty or isolation valve closed. | Check if the gas cylinder is empty, or if the isolation valve is closed. Select another energy source. Reset the refrigerator 3 or 4 times in gas mode until the flame ignites. Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre if the problem persists. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
10 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 10 (no 'engine running' signal present in manual DC mode) | Controls are in manual DC mode and the engine is not running - the refrigerator can only cool on 12V when the engine is running. | Start the engine or select a different energy source. | DIY Safe |
11 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 11 (no energy source available in AUTO mode) | Controls are in AUTO mode but no energy source is available. | Start the engine, connect the 230V supply, or open the gas supply, then reset the refrigerator by turning it off and on again. | DIY Safe |
12 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 12 | — | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
13 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 13 (thermistor fails, control automatically switches to Backup mode (BOS)) | Thermistor connector not correctly plugged in. | Check if the connector above the fin on the inside of the cabinet is correctly plugged in. If so, contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
14 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 14 (display board and power board lost communication with each other) | — | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
18 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 18 on start-up | Normal start-up behaviour - all LCD segments lighting is not a fault. | Wait a few seconds for the refrigerator to start up normally. No action needed. | DIY Safe |
Auto-TrailWater System (Motorhome, 2005 Model Year)
Water System Component41011 FAQ
Water System (Motorhome, 2005 Model Year)
Water System ComponentMaster Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | No water comes out of any tap when it's turned on, even though the pump is running. | The fresh water tank has run dry. | Check, fill. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No water comes out of any tap when it's turned on, even though the pump is running. | Pump not primed | Refer to manufacturer's instructions | DIY Safe |
N/A | No water comes out of any tap when it's turned on, even though the pump is running. | The pump wired in reverse | Check the wiring is correct, following the pump manufacturer's own instructions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No water comes out of any tap when it's turned on, even though the pump is running. | A pipe has come loose at the pump's inlet or outlet. | Check connections | DIY Safe |
N/A | No water comes out of any tap when it's turned on, even though the pump is running. | Pipes restricted by kinks | Check pipe runs | DIY Safe |
N/A | No water comes out of any tap when it's turned on, even though the pump is running. | The pump's inlet or outlet pipe is blocked. | Check for the blockage, starting with the fresh water tank itself. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No water comes out of any tap when it's turned on, even though the pump is running. | An in-line filter or the pump's own filter is blocked. | Dismantle and clean | DIY Safe |
N/A | No water comes out of any tap when it's turned on, even though the pump is running. | There's an air leak in the pipe feeding into the pump. | Look for air bubbles in the pipe and fit a clip to seal the joint. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump does not run | Pump or tap wired incorrectly | Refer to pump/tap manufacturer's instruction | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump does not run | Pump fuse blown | Check the wiring connections are sound, then fit a fresh fuse of the correct rating. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump does not run | Battery disconnected | Check connections | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump does not run | Pump seized or overheated | Refer to manufacturer's servicing instructions | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump does not run | On a pressure-controlled pump, the pressure-sensing switch itself may have failed. | Refer to manufacturer's servicing instructions | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump does not run | On a switched-tap system, the tap's own switch may have failed. | Refer to manufacturer's servicing instructions | DIY Safe |
N/A | The cold tap runs normally, but the hot tap's flow is weaker. | The feed pipe into the water heater has been connected to its outlet by mistake. | Refer to installation instructions | DIY Safe |
N/A | The cold tap runs normally, but the hot tap's flow is weaker. | Blockage in hot pipeline | Disconnect pipes and inspect | DIY Safe |
N/A | The cold tap runs normally, but the hot tap's flow is weaker. | A kink in the heater's inlet or outlet pipe is restricting the flow. | Check for kinks and re-route the pipe if needed, making sure the hose fitted is the recommended type. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The cold tap runs normally, but the hot tap's flow is weaker. | Hot tap is not connected | Refer to installation instructions | DIY Safe |
N/A | The cold tap runs normally, but the hot tap's flow is weaker. | Hot tap failed or blocked | Disconnect and inspect | DIY Safe |
N/A | The cold tap runs normally, but the hot tap's flow is weaker. | Heater non-return valve jammed | Seek service attention | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Both the hot and cold taps have reduced flow. | A kink in the cold water pipe is restricting the flow. | Check and re-route if necessary | DIY Safe |
N/A | Both the hot and cold taps have reduced flow. | Blockage in cold pipe line | Disconnect the pipework just after the first Y-connector and trace it through to the tap, checking as you go. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Both the hot and cold taps have reduced flow. | Cold tap not connected | Refer to installation instructions | DIY Safe |
N/A | Both the hot and cold taps have reduced flow. | Cold tap failed or blocked | Disconnect and inspect | DIY Safe |
N/A | Both the hot and cold taps have reduced flow. | On a Carver Crystal unit, the cartridge may have reached the end of its life. | Replace cartridge | DIY Safe |
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N/A | Both the hot and cold taps have reduced flow. | A low battery is making the pump run more slowly than normal. | Check how much charge is left in the battery - see the electrical supply section for guidance. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water flows from the hot tap but the cold tap's flow is reduced. | Newly-fitted taps may themselves be restricting the flow. | Disconnect them and confirm their bore is at least 6.3mm. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water flows from the hot tap but the cold tap's flow is reduced. | Pump needs servicing | Refer to pump servicing instructions | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water flows from the hot tap but the cold tap's flow is reduced. | The pump's own filter, or an in-line filter if one is fitted, may be partly blocked. | Dismantle and clean if necessary | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water flows from the hot tap but the cold tap's flow is reduced. | A kink at the pump's outlet is restricting the flow. | Check and re-route if necessary. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water flows from the hot tap but the cold tap's flow is reduced. | Water leak | Check all water connections | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water difficult to drain | 'Y' connectors fitted incorrectly | Refer to installation instructions | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water difficult to drain | Kinked pipework is restricting the flow. | Check and re-route if necessary | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water difficult to drain | Bore size difference in taps | Fit taps that share the same bore size. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water difficult to drain | Drain plug partially blocked | Remove plug entirely | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water difficult to drain | With the hot taps shut, air can't get into the hot water system to let it drain. | Open taps | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water difficult to drain | Loops hanging in pipe runs | Refer to installation instructions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Reduced flow from either tap | Hot water is feeding back into the cold line - usually because a mixer tap or a single combined hot/cold outlet is in use. | Fit a non-return valve into the cold supply, close to the tap. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The cold tap runs warm instead of cold. | On a pressurised system, the pump's switching pressure is set too high. | Refer to water supply note | DIY Safe |
N/A | The cold tap runs warm instead of cold. | On a switched-tap system, the pump is delivering more flow than the tap itself can pass. | Refer to water supply note | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump runs on for more than 5-10 seconds after closing all taps | Possible leak in the system | Check the whole water system for leaks without delay, and make a habit of powering the pump down from its control panel every time you leave the vehicle. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Aerated water from a tap | There may be a leak on the pump's suction side. | Look for a leak where the pump draws water in and repair as needed. | DIY Safe |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I drain down the water system for winter or storage?
Open the drain cock on the main tank, drain the heater, and open any drain cocks in the pipework. Leave all the taps open too, then wait around five minutes for everything to clear.
TrumaUltrastore Water Heater
Water Heater5100 FAQs
Ultrastore Water Heater
Water HeaterTechnical Specifications
TypeLiquid gas (LPG) operated storage water heater with an additional 230V electric heating element
Max Water Pressure2.8 bar (use a pressure reducer when connected to a central/mains water supply)
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | The heater switches on but doesn't run (gas operation) | No 12V supply, or a window above the cowl is open. | Check the power supply is at least 10.5V, check the water heater's fuse, and shut any window that's above the cowl. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The heater switches on but doesn't run, and the red lamp comes on (gas operation) | Cowl cover fitted, air in the gas supply, no gas supply, or incorrect gas pressure. | Take off the cowl cover and/or clear any blockage. Check the gas valves and gas bottle. Switch the appliance off for 5 minutes and back on to unlock it and purge any trapped air. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The heater runs for a while, then the red lamp comes on (gas operation) | Over-temperature thermostat has operated. | Top up the water content if needed (close the drain valve first). Switch the appliance off for 5 minutes and back on to unlock it. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The heater won't run once switched on (electrical operation) | No 230V supply voltage, or the over-temperature thermostat has operated. | Connect to the site's mains supply and/or check the residual current breaker. Top up the water content if needed (close the drain valve first). The electric heating element has its own excess-temperature cut-out - use the control panel to turn it off, wait 5 minutes, then turn it back on. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The safety/drain valve is dripping water | Water pressure too high. | Check the water pressure doesn't exceed 2.8 bar - fit a pressure reducer if it's on mains water. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Hot water comes out when the cold tap is opened | Hot water flows back through the cold water supply. | Fit a non-return valve on the cold supply as the installation instructions describe. If it keeps happening, contact Truma Service. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |