Auto-Trail • Imala • 2026

Locate the socket on the left side of the awning case and insert the winding handle, then turn clockwise - the fabric starts to unroll after a couple of turns. Once it's out to about a metre, stop and lower the support legs, adjusting their length until they reach the ground, then keep unrolling until the awning is fully extended.

Adjust the legs' height so the fabric sits taut and rain can run off, then pull the handle back out. It's worth pegging the legs down too. To put it away, reverse the process - wind anti-clockwise until it snaps back into the box, then keep turning slowly until the handle stops, which locks it shut.

If no input is made for 60 seconds, the display changes to the lock menu, and after a further 60 seconds, the display turns off to save power. It can be reactivated by briefly pressing the Home button.

Yes - you can pair several devices, and up to 3 phones or tablets can be connected to operate it at once.

Press the Home button briefly for 1 second. The start screen will open in the display, followed by the main menu.

Choose 'Switch off' in the main menu, then 'Switch off' again in the submenu. Bear in mind this also turns off every heater and air conditioner connected to the panel.

Turn on Bluetooth on your phone or tablet, keep it within range of the control panel, and follow the display's setup wizard together with the app's instructions.

Its built-in battery, which keeps your settings (time, language, appliance settings), lasts roughly eight years. A dealer can replace it if you ask.

On the PSU (fuses 2 to 10 show a red LED beneath them once blown, while the charger's own fuse has a green LED to confirm it's working): Fuse 1 (25A, white) - Charger; Fuse 2 (7.5A, brown) - Permanent 12V; Fuse 3 (10A, red) - 12V Sockets; Fuse 4 (10A, red) - Appliances/Fans; Fuse 5 (15A, blue) - Compressor Fridge (when fitted); Fuse 6 (10A, red) - Pumps; Fuse 7 (10A, red) - Light Main & Dimmer 1; Fuse 8 (10A, red) - Light Main & Dimmer 2; Fuse 9 (5A, tan) - Awning/Entry Light; Fuse 10 (10A, red) - En Route/Electric Step; Fuses 11-13 (15A/7.5A/5A) - Spare; Fuse 14 (15A, blue) - Solar (rear fitting).

MCBs: MCB 1 (10A) - 230V sockets/cooker; MCB 2 (16A) - Extra 230V sockets/heating system; MCB 3 (10A) - Fridge/Separate Water Heater/Charger/Aircon. Always fit a replacement fuse rated the same as the original - never a higher one, since that risks damage to the wiring harness. If a new fuse blows again straight away, don't just keep swapping it out - get the underlying fault checked and speak to your dealer.

First, an alert appears on the control panel's screen, warning that the battery needs recharging.

The system alerts again, then switches off every circuit it controls to stop further discharge - though anything wired directly to the battery, bypassing the control system, will keep drawing current regardless.

Steer clear of frequent deep discharges, and try to keep it sitting at a partial charge - ideally somewhere between 40% and 80% - rather than running it right down. Don't treat Under Voltage Protection (UVP) kicking in as your cue to recharge; by then it's already past where you want to be.

Most Sargent systems use a PX300 or PF200 battery charger. If yours has a different charger fitted, check with that charger's own manufacturer for Lithium compatibility. The PX300's charging profile suits many leisure-industry Lithium batteries that have their own internal Battery Management System (BMS) - its charging profile and voltages are available as a downloadable attachment on the PX300's own product page, though you'll still need to confirm suitability directly with your chosen battery's manufacturer.

Systems that use a PX300 include the EC800, EC700, EC600, EC500, EC400 series, EC400+ and EC328. If your system doesn't have a PX300, its charger will run a fixed 13.8V, which generally isn't suitable for fully charging a Lithium battery - and switching to Lithium may also mean you need a DC-DC charger to keep the charging current within limits.

We don't endorse any particular make or model, but the PX300 charger (fitted across the EC400/EC400+, EC500, EC600, EC700, EC800 and EC328 systems) suits the great majority of good-quality AGM batteries sold in the UK. Its charge profile is included in the instruction manual attached to its product page - if you're at all unsure whether a battery is compatible, check with that battery's own distributor or manufacturer first.

Whether you can depends on which type of Sargent PSU system you have - manual-charging or CAN-bus based.

On systems that only charge manually - PSU2007 with EC200, EC328, EC325, EC225 with EC100, EC176 with EC361/2/3, and EC155 with EC50/51 - the leisure battery is charged by default: with the control panel switched off, the mains charger starts charging the leisure battery the moment it's plugged in, and with the panel on, it keeps the leisure battery topped up while also powering the leisure loads. To charge the vehicle battery instead, switch the control panel on and pick the vehicle battery - the charger then charges that battery along with any leisure loads left switched on. Note that EC100, EC200, EC325 and EC50/51 panels won't allow the vehicle battery to be selected below 10.9V, while EC328 panels (software V2.21) will allow it above 2V provided the mains charger is on. If mains power is lost while charging the vehicle battery, leisure loads will start drawing from it instead - switching back to the leisure battery once the vehicle battery either falls below the 10.9V cut-off or, if it started above that, once it recovers back up to 10.9V. The leisure battery itself has its own 9V cut-off that disconnects leisure loads to stop it discharging further.

CAN-bus systems (the EC800, EC700, EC600, EC500, EC450 and EC400) include a smart-charge feature instead, on by default but switchable off. With the mains charger on, it defaults to charging the leisure battery while keeping an eye on the vehicle battery - if that drops below 12.4V, charging switches to it for 4 hours, then returns to the leisure battery for another 4 hours, repeating the cycle for as long as the vehicle battery stays low. This runs regardless of whether the control panel is on, as long as the system's own shutdown button is switched in (unless you've disabled the feature) - and if the panel is on, you can manually pick whichever battery you want charged at any point in the cycle.

Start by switching the EC700 PSU off, then switch the shutdown button on again while continuously tapping the control panel screen. Once the system powers up you'll see a blue screen prompting you to touch 3 dots - do that, and the panel will show 'calibrated' on the blue screen, then go back to its usual display, completing the process.

Start by switching the EC800 PSU on and powering up the control panel via its power button. Then press and hold that power button - after 5 seconds the screen goes off, but keep holding for another 15 seconds until a blue screen comes up asking you to tap 3 dots. Do that, and the panel will show 'calibrated' on the blue screen, then go back to its usual display, completing the process.

Most Sargent systems use a PX300 or PF200 battery charger. If yours has a different charger fitted, check with that charger's own manufacturer for Lithium compatibility. The PX300's charging profile suits many leisure-industry Lithium batteries that have their own internal Battery Management System (BMS) - its charging profile and voltages are available as a downloadable attachment on the PX300's own product page, though you'll still need to confirm suitability directly with your chosen battery's manufacturer.

Systems that use a PX300 include the EC800, EC700, EC600, EC500, EC400 series, EC400+ and EC328. If your system doesn't have a PX300, its charger will run a fixed 13.8V, which generally isn't suitable for fully charging a Lithium battery - and switching to Lithium may also mean you need a DC-DC charger to keep the charging current within limits.

On an Auto-Trail, adding an extra leisure battery is normally simple - every current model and most older ones already have a dedicated connector, so the extra battery harness just plugs in.

Ideally pick a second battery of the same make, type and capacity as the one you have. If that's not possible, at least keep the capacity the same and never mix battery types (for example, don't pair a 'wet' battery with an AGM one).

Sargent sells the harness through its web shop (https://sargentltd.co.uk/shop/product/auto_trail_additional_battery_harness_2011-2016/229). It's the newer type, fitted to Auto-Trail vans from 2011, but it suits older vans too because the battery connector hasn't changed.

To fit it:

1. Connect the harness to the new battery, making sure both terminals are tight and their covers are back on.
2. Secure the battery in its box or compartment (this varies by year and model) without trapping the harness.
3. Take the protective cap off the vehicle's spare battery connector.
4. Plug the new battery in.

With an EC328 or EC700 system, that's it - the extra battery is ready to charge and use.

With an EC500 and the EC480 colour LCD panel, also set the battery size to the new total in the advanced settings (two 100Ah batteries means 200Ah), then recalibrate the current sensor.

To change the battery size:

1. On the home screen showing the brand logo, press both the up and down arrows at once and keep them pressed.
2. Let go once the screen changes.
3. Scroll to 'Battery Size' and use select to raise it to the new total.
4. Go back up to 'Exit Advanced', then press select to return to normal use.

Don't worry if the Ah reading drops afterwards - it takes a few charge and discharge cycles to line up with the real capacity, which is normal.

To recalibrate the current sensor:

1. Turn the charger off, and switch the control panel off at its power button.
2. Go to the active battery screen.
3. Hold select until 'calibrating please wait….' appears.
4. Let go - calibration is done.

We don't endorse any particular make or model, but the PX300 charger (fitted across the EC400/EC400+, EC500, EC600, EC700, EC800 and EC328 systems) suits the great majority of good-quality AGM batteries sold in the UK. Its charge profile is included in the instruction manual attached to its product page - if you're at all unsure whether a battery is compatible, check with that battery's own distributor or manufacturer first.

How much solar you can add through the PSU comes down to the fuse protecting that circuit, which varies by system - the maximum recommended wattage through the PSU is 120W for EC325/EC328/EC500/EC600, 80W for EC400, and 150W for EC700/EC800/EC400+. You can go beyond that by wiring extra panels straight onto the leisure battery via their own regulator and a correctly-sized fuse, though you'll lose the ability to see that extra solar's output on the control panel.

Any system without a PSU solar input at all needs its solar wired directly onto the leisure battery this way regardless - and there's no upper wattage limit when connecting straight to the battery like this.

Yes, operation while driving is permitted provided that national regulations and rules are followed, and an appropriate safety shut-off device (such as Truma MonoControl CS or DuoControl CS) is installed.

FrostControl opens automatically at temperatures below approximately 3 °C to protect the water system from frost damage, or in the event of overpressure in the system.

For operation at temperatures below 10 °C, propane must be used because butane stops vaporizing at around 0 °C.

Descale the water container once a year, or whenever the control panel prompts you to.

Climate class SN (which Dometic calls 'Extended Temperate') means the fridge is designed to work reliably when the air temperature is from +10°C up to +32°C (taken at the bottom vent grille, outside the vehicle).

In a hot summer the outside temperature often reaches about 32°C - the top of the fridge's rated range - and once it climbs higher, the temperature inside the fridge will inevitably rise. An absorption fridge needs a heat source to move its refrigerant around the cooling unit (which is why it can run on 12V, 230V or gas), so it has to get rid of the heat from its power source as well as the heat drawn out of the food compartment.

To help it in hot weather: park where the fridge vents get as much shade as possible during the day; unclip the outside vent grilles to improve airflow; and if you regularly travel somewhere hot, consider having a ventilator kit (a fan fitted behind the fridge) installed to boost the airflow - Dometic lists these among its accessories.

Dometic's 2023 'New for old - simply swap' guide covers both its absorption and compressor fridges, showing which current models replace older ones. It's available from the catalogues section of Dometic's website.

Check the fuse in the mains supply and replace it if it has blown, and make sure the vehicle is actually plugged into a mains supply. If both are fine, the AC heating element may have failed - that needs an authorised Dometic service centre.

Possible causes, and what to do: the vehicle's own fuse has blown - replace it (see the vehicle's handbook); the vehicle battery is flat - test it and recharge it; the ignition is off - switch it on. If the fuse in the fridge's DC cable has blown (the fuse on the relay) or the DC heating element has failed, contact an authorised Dometic service centre.

Check the gas cylinder isn't empty (change it if it is) and that the gas valve is turned on. If air has got into the gas pipe, turn the fridge off and on again, repeating this three or four times if needed; if a gas hob or cooker is fitted, switch that on, then try the fridge again if needed.

The mains voltage is too low. The fridge switches back to mains by itself once the supply voltage recovers.

Work through the likely causes: the cooling unit isn't getting enough air - make sure the outside vent grilles aren't blocked; the evaporator has iced up - check the door shuts properly and the seal is seated and undamaged, then defrost the fridge; the temperature setting is too warm - turn it to a colder setting; it's very hot outside - take the vent grille off for a while so hot air can escape faster; too much food, or too much warm food, went in at once - take some out, and let warm food cool before putting it back; the fridge was only switched on recently - give it four to five hours, then recheck the temperature.

These codes apply to Dometic's 10-series fridges.

• W01: the temperature sensor in the fridge compartment is faulty - contact an authorised Dometic service centre.
• W05: no AC (mains) power, or the AC voltage is wrong - connect a supply, or choose another energy source such as gas.
• W06: no DC power - connect the fridge to DC power, or choose another energy source such as gas or mains AC.

W10 with a beep: the door has been left open longer than 2 minutes - close it. W11: DC overvoltage (above 16V) - reduce the DC supply voltage.

ERROR-type faults on Dometic's 10-series fridges have to be reset by hand: on the RM10.5T, RMS10.5T and RMS10.5XT, hold the control knob in for 2 seconds; on the RM10.5S, RMS10.5S and RMS10.5XS, press and hold for 2 seconds. You'll hear a beep once the error is cleared.

• E03: the power module and display aren't communicating - contact an authorised Dometic service centre.
• E07, E08 and E09: no cooling in gas, AC (mains) or DC mode respectively - check the fridge (and the vehicle) is level and correct it if needed, then reset the error; if it comes back, contact Dometic customer service.
• E12 (gas valve test failed) and E13 (internal communication fault) both stop gas operation - reset the error, and contact customer service if it returns.
• E14: the battery packs that power it in stand-alone gas mode have run down - fit fresh batteries before resetting the error.
• E50: gas has locked out after 3 failed ignition attempts, usually because the gas cylinder is empty - change the cylinder, then reset the error.
• E51 (gas lock-out from an internal power-module fault), E52 (gas valve earth fault) and E53 (ignition electrode earth fault): reset the error, and contact customer service if it happens again.

Take the waste-holding tank out through the service door, stand it up so the pour-out spout faces upward, then take the cap off. Add the recommended amount of Thetford waste-holding tank additive plus roughly 3 litres of water so the bottom is covered, refit the cap, and slot the tank back into place.

Use the direction arrows to pick the on-screen (OSD) language for your display, then choose 'Auto Search' and hit 'OK'.

Open the fresh water tank's drain valve, then the wastewater tank's (into a suitable container), then leave every tap inside the vehicle open (mixer taps set to their central position). There's also an internal drain valve that clears the water heater and its own pipework - open that too, give the vehicle five minutes to finish draining, then briefly run the pump to clear any water left in it. Empty the cassette toilet too.