Dometic 10-Series
Official technical documentation and workshop diagnostics for 10-Series.
View official manual on manufacturer's site ↗Technical Specifications
Reference
- Power icon (circle with vertical line) ON/OFF button
- Warning triangle Fault indication
- Battery icon Operating with DC power
- Flame icon Operating with gas
- Plug icon Operating with AC power
- Letter A Automatic mode
- Thermometer icon (segmented) Temperature indication
- MODE circle icon Energy selection button
- Thermometer icon (plain) Temperature selection button
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | [230V AC] The refrigerator does not work on AC | The AC supply's fuse has blown, or the vehicle isn't plugged into the mains | Check and replace the AC fuse, and ensure the vehicle is connected to a live mains supply. | DIY Safe |
N/A | [12V DC] The refrigerator does not work / no power on DC | The DC supply's fuse or the vehicle's fuse has blown, or the vehicle battery is flat | Check and replace the DC fuse and vehicle fuse, and check/charge the vehicle battery. | DIY Safe |
N/A | [Gas] The refrigerator does not work on gas | The gas cylinder has run out, the gas valve is shut, or there's air in the gas pipe | Check the gas cylinder level, open the gas valve, and bleed air from the supply line. | DIY Safe |
N/A | [Gas/Cooling] W01: Fridge-compartment temperature sensor faulty | Faulty or disconnected temperature sensor hardware/wiring | Check the sensor wiring and connection; replace the sensor if faulty. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | [230V AC] W05: No AC power, or the AC voltage is under 190V | Low mains voltage or the AC supply is disconnected | Check the AC connection and mains voltage. | DIY Safe |
N/A | [12V DC] W06: No DC power connected | Missing or disconnected 12V DC supply connection | Check the DC supply connection. | DIY Safe |
N/A | [12V DC] W11: DC overvoltage (above 16V) | Supply voltage exceeds safe operational thresholds | Check the vehicle's charging system for overvoltage. | DIY Safe |
N/A | [Mechanical/Water] W10: Door has been left open longer than 2 minutes | Refrigerator door left open, triggering a continuous warning beep | Close the refrigerator door. | DIY Safe |
N/A | [Gas] E03: Power module and display aren't communicating | Communication cable failure or module fault | Check the communication cable/connector between the power module and display. | DIY Safe |
N/A | [Gas] E07 / E08 / E09: No cooling capacity in gas, AC, or DC mode | The unit is operating at an unlevel angle, or there is a cooling unit failure | Check the appliance is level, then contact an authorised service agent if the fault persists. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | [Gas] E12 / E13: Gas valve check error or internal communication error | Gas valve fault or internal module communication failure | Contact an authorised service agent. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | [12V DC] E14: Battery pack charge too low in stand-alone gas mode | Depleted batteries in the standalone battery packs | Recharge or replace the standalone battery packs. | DIY Safe |
N/A | [Gas] E50: Gas locked out after 3 failed ignition attempts | Ignition not possible, or the gas cylinder is empty | Check the gas supply and reset the appliance to retry ignition. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Unburned/unburnt gas smell or exhaust gases entering the vehicle interior | Air inlet vent located too high (preventing complete evacuation of unburnt gas) or inadequate sealing between the refrigerator and the vehicle body | Check the position and sealing of the air inlet/outlet vents against the installation instructions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Compressor does not run at low ambient temperatures (approx. below 0C) | External ventilation grilles left fully open (or not fully closed) when replacing an absorption unit with a compressor unit, or compressor compartment too cold | Adjust the external ventilation grilles per the compressor retrofit instructions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently | Inadequate ventilation around the cooling unit, evaporator iced up, or temperature setting too high | Improve ventilation, defrost the evaporator if iced, and check the temperature setting. | DIY Safe |
N/A | [12V DC] Error code W02 / continuous LED: Defective temperature sensor in cooling compartment | Faulty or disconnected internal temperature sensor | Check the sensor wiring and connection; replace the sensor if faulty. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | [12V DC] Error code E03 / 3 light impulses: Communication error | Bus or display communication failure between internal modules | Check internal wiring/connectors between the display and control modules. | DIY Safe |
N/A | [12V DC] Error code W10 / continuous beep: Door open longer than 2 minutes | Refrigerator door left open | Close the refrigerator door. | DIY Safe |
N/A | [12V DC] Error code E32 / 2 light impulses: External fan overcurrent | Cooling fan drawing excessive current or jammed | Check the cooling fan for obstructions or mechanical failure; replace if faulty. | DIY Safe |
N/A | [12V DC] Error code E33 / 3 light impulses: Compressor fails to start | Compressor unit locked or electrical drive failure | Contact an authorised service agent. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | [12V DC] Error code E34 / 4 light impulses: Compressor overloaded | System blockage or excessive operating load | Check for blockages in the cooling system; contact an authorised service agent if the fault persists. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | [12V DC] Error code E35 / 5 light impulses: Compressor controller thermal fuse tripped | Overheating of the compressor electronics due to poor ventilation | Improve ventilation around the compressor electronics. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Ammonia smell, or cooling circuit damage/leak detected | Refrigerant/cooling circuit compromised, damaged, or ruptured | Stop using the appliance and contact an authorised service agent immediately - do not attempt to repair the cooling circuit yourself. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Total/complete battery discharge when vehicle engine is off | DC heating element (12V) connected directly to the battery without an ignition-controlled relay | Ensure the DC heating element's supply line is wired through an ignition-controlled relay, not directly to the battery. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Device does not start, or system shuts down unexpectedly | Vehicle's battery management system shut down the device to protect the vehicle battery from over-discharge | Check the vehicle battery charge state and battery management system settings. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Excessive condensation inside the refrigerator | Frequent door opening, storing warm food, or a clogged/improperly routed condensation drain | Minimise door opening, allow food to cool before storing, and check the condensation drain is clear and correctly routed. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge isn't cooling well enough | Inadequate ventilation to the unit | Make sure nothing is covering the ventilation grilles. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge isn't cooling well enough | Thermostat setting is too low | Set thermostat to higher level | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge isn't cooling well enough | The condenser is heavily frosted | Confirm the refrigerator door is closing properly. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge isn't cooling well enough | A lot of warm food has gone in over a short time. | Let warm food cool down before putting it in the fridge. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge isn't cooling well enough | The appliance has only been running for a short while. | Give it around 4-5 hours, then see whether the fridge compartment has started cooling. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge isn't cooling well enough | Ambient temperature is too high | Regularly remove ventilation grilles | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge won't cool while running on gas | Gas cylinder empty | Change the gas cylinder | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge won't cool while running on gas | Upstream shut-off device closed | Open shut-off valve | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge won't cool while running on gas | Air in the gas pipe | Switch the appliance off and start it again, repeating this 3 to 4 times if needed. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge won't cool on 12V power | On-board fuse defective | Fit new fuse | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge won't cool on 12V power | On-board battery discharged | Check battery, charge it | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge won't cool on 12V power | Engine not running | Start engine | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge won't cool on 12V power | Heating element defective (refer to failure indication) | Get in touch with Dometic customer services. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | The fridge won't cool on 230V mains power | On-board fuse defective | Fit a new fuse | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge won't cool on 230V mains power | The vehicle isn't plugged in to a mains supply. | Plug the vehicle in to a mains supply. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge won't cool on 230V mains power | Heating element defective (refer to failure indication) | Get in touch with Dometic customer services. | Professional Intervention Required |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What does the SN climate class on my Dometic RM fridge mean?
Climate class SN (which Dometic calls 'Extended Temperate') means the fridge is designed to work reliably when the air temperature is from +10°C up to +32°C (taken at the bottom vent grille, outside the vehicle).
Q: How well does an absorption fridge cool in hot weather?
In a hot summer the outside temperature often reaches about 32°C - the top of the fridge's rated range - and once it climbs higher, the temperature inside the fridge will inevitably rise. An absorption fridge needs a heat source to move its refrigerant around the cooling unit (which is why it can run on 12V, 230V or gas), so it has to get rid of the heat from its power source as well as the heat drawn out of the food compartment.
To help it in hot weather: park where the fridge vents get as much shade as possible during the day; unclip the outside vent grilles to improve airflow; and if you regularly travel somewhere hot, consider having a ventilator kit (a fan fitted behind the fridge) installed to boost the airflow - Dometic lists these among its accessories.
Q: What can replace my old Dometic RM fridge?
Dometic's 2023 'New for old - simply swap' guide covers both its absorption and compressor fridges, showing which current models replace older ones. It's available from the catalogues section of Dometic's website.
Q: My fridge won't work on mains (AC) power - what should I check?
Check the fuse in the mains supply and replace it if it has blown, and make sure the vehicle is actually plugged into a mains supply. If both are fine, the AC heating element may have failed - that needs an authorised Dometic service centre.
Q: My fridge won't work on 12V (DC) - what should I check?
Possible causes, and what to do: the vehicle's own fuse has blown - replace it (see the vehicle's handbook); the vehicle battery is flat - test it and recharge it; the ignition is off - switch it on. If the fuse in the fridge's DC cable has blown (the fuse on the relay) or the DC heating element has failed, contact an authorised Dometic service centre.
Q: My fridge won't work on gas - what should I check?
Check the gas cylinder isn't empty (change it if it is) and that the gas valve is turned on. If air has got into the gas pipe, turn the fridge off and on again, repeating this three or four times if needed; if a gas hob or cooker is fitted, switch that on, then try the fridge again if needed.
Q: Why is my fridge running on gas in automatic mode when I'm plugged into mains?
The mains voltage is too low. The fridge switches back to mains by itself once the supply voltage recovers.
Q: Why isn't my fridge getting cold enough?
Work through the likely causes: the cooling unit isn't getting enough air - make sure the outside vent grilles aren't blocked; the evaporator has iced up - check the door shuts properly and the seal is seated and undamaged, then defrost the fridge; the temperature setting is too warm - turn it to a colder setting; it's very hot outside - take the vent grille off for a while so hot air can escape faster; too much food, or too much warm food, went in at once - take some out, and let warm food cool before putting it back; the fridge was only switched on recently - give it four to five hours, then recheck the temperature.
Q: WARNING type fault messages
These codes apply to Dometic's 10-series fridges.
- W01: the temperature sensor in the fridge compartment is faulty - contact an authorised Dometic service centre.
- W05: no AC (mains) power, or the AC voltage is wrong - connect a supply, or choose another energy source such as gas.
- W06: no DC power - connect the fridge to DC power, or choose another energy source such as gas or mains AC.
W10 with a beep: the door has been left open longer than 2 minutes - close it. W11: DC overvoltage (above 16V) - reduce the DC supply voltage.
Q: ERROR type fault messages
ERROR-type faults on Dometic's 10-series fridges have to be reset by hand: on the RM10.5T, RMS10.5T and RMS10.5XT, hold the control knob in for 2 seconds; on the RM10.5S, RMS10.5S and RMS10.5XS, press and hold for 2 seconds. You'll hear a beep once the error is cleared.
- E03: the power module and display aren't communicating - contact an authorised Dometic service centre.
- E07, E08 and E09: no cooling in gas, AC (mains) or DC mode respectively - check the fridge (and the vehicle) is level and correct it if needed, then reset the error; if it comes back, contact Dometic customer service.
- E12 (gas valve test failed) and E13 (internal communication fault) both stop gas operation - reset the error, and contact customer service if it returns.
- E14: the battery packs that power it in stand-alone gas mode have run down - fit fresh batteries before resetting the error.
- E50: gas has locked out after 3 failed ignition attempts, usually because the gas cylinder is empty - change the cylinder, then reset the error.
- E51 (gas lock-out from an internal power-module fault), E52 (gas valve earth fault) and E53 (ignition electrode earth fault): reset the error, and contact customer service if it happens again.