Auto-Trail • Campervan • 2019

Locate the socket on the left side of the awning case and insert the winding handle, then turn clockwise - the fabric starts to unroll after a couple of turns. Once it's out to about a metre, stop and lower the support legs, adjusting their length until they reach the ground, then keep unrolling until the awning is fully extended.

Adjust the legs' height so the fabric sits taut and rain can run off, then pull the handle back out. It's worth pegging the legs down too. To put it away, reverse the process - wind anti-clockwise until it snaps back into the box, then keep turning slowly until the handle stops, which locks it shut.

Whether you can depends on which type of Sargent PSU system you have - manual-charging or CAN-bus based.

On systems that only charge manually - PSU2007 with EC200, EC328, EC325, EC225 with EC100, EC176 with EC361/2/3, and EC155 with EC50/51 - the leisure battery is charged by default: with the control panel switched off, the mains charger starts charging the leisure battery the moment it's plugged in, and with the panel on, it keeps the leisure battery topped up while also powering the leisure loads. To charge the vehicle battery instead, switch the control panel on and pick the vehicle battery - the charger then charges that battery along with any leisure loads left switched on. Note that EC100, EC200, EC325 and EC50/51 panels won't allow the vehicle battery to be selected below 10.9V, while EC328 panels (software V2.21) will allow it above 2V provided the mains charger is on. If mains power is lost while charging the vehicle battery, leisure loads will start drawing from it instead - switching back to the leisure battery once the vehicle battery either falls below the 10.9V cut-off or, if it started above that, once it recovers back up to 10.9V. The leisure battery itself has its own 9V cut-off that disconnects leisure loads to stop it discharging further.

CAN-bus systems (the EC800, EC700, EC600, EC500, EC450 and EC400) include a smart-charge feature instead, on by default but switchable off. With the mains charger on, it defaults to charging the leisure battery while keeping an eye on the vehicle battery - if that drops below 12.4V, charging switches to it for 4 hours, then returns to the leisure battery for another 4 hours, repeating the cycle for as long as the vehicle battery stays low. This runs regardless of whether the control panel is on, as long as the system's own shutdown button is switched in (unless you've disabled the feature) - and if the panel is on, you can manually pick whichever battery you want charged at any point in the cycle.

On newer panels with blue LEDs, seeing the Leisure select & levels and Vehicle select & levels LEDs both flashing while you drive is completely normal - it just means the EC155 is picking up the engine run signal, so its internal split-charge relay has engaged. On older panels with green LEDs, the same thing is shown by the middle yellow LED flashing instead.

Either way, once the EC155 detects that engine run signal, it also switches off the 12V supply to the living area.

Turn off the van's 12V supply, then go to the screen showing the manufacturer's logo (e.g. Autotrail) and press the Up and Down arrows at the same time to enter programming mode, then navigate to (a) Battery Size - set to the right capacity - and (b) AH Start Point - which should be your battery's estimated charge, i.e. 100% if fully charged - using Select (<) to adjust each. Scroll to 'Exit Advanced' and press Select to leave.

Most Sargent systems use a PX300 or PF200 battery charger. If yours has a different charger fitted, check with that charger's own manufacturer for Lithium compatibility. The PX300's charging profile suits many leisure-industry Lithium batteries that have their own internal Battery Management System (BMS) - its charging profile and voltages are available as a downloadable attachment on the PX300's own product page, though you'll still need to confirm suitability directly with your chosen battery's manufacturer.

Systems that use a PX300 include the EC800, EC700, EC600, EC500, EC400 series, EC400+ and EC328. If your system doesn't have a PX300, its charger will run a fixed 13.8V, which generally isn't suitable for fully charging a Lithium battery - and switching to Lithium may also mean you need a DC-DC charger to keep the charging current within limits.

On an Auto-Trail, adding an extra leisure battery is normally simple - every current model and most older ones already have a dedicated connector, so the extra battery harness just plugs in.

Ideally pick a second battery of the same make, type and capacity as the one you have. If that's not possible, at least keep the capacity the same and never mix battery types (for example, don't pair a 'wet' battery with an AGM one).

Sargent sells the harness through its web shop (https://sargentltd.co.uk/shop/product/auto_trail_additional_battery_harness_2011-2016/229). It's the newer type, fitted to Auto-Trail vans from 2011, but it suits older vans too because the battery connector hasn't changed.

To fit it:

1. Connect the harness to the new battery, making sure both terminals are tight and their covers are back on.
2. Secure the battery in its box or compartment (this varies by year and model) without trapping the harness.
3. Take the protective cap off the vehicle's spare battery connector.
4. Plug the new battery in.

With an EC328 or EC700 system, that's it - the extra battery is ready to charge and use.

With an EC500 and the EC480 colour LCD panel, also set the battery size to the new total in the advanced settings (two 100Ah batteries means 200Ah), then recalibrate the current sensor.

To change the battery size:

1. On the home screen showing the brand logo, press both the up and down arrows at once and keep them pressed.
2. Let go once the screen changes.
3. Scroll to 'Battery Size' and use select to raise it to the new total.
4. Go back up to 'Exit Advanced', then press select to return to normal use.

Don't worry if the Ah reading drops afterwards - it takes a few charge and discharge cycles to line up with the real capacity, which is normal.

To recalibrate the current sensor:

1. Turn the charger off, and switch the control panel off at its power button.
2. Go to the active battery screen.
3. Hold select until 'calibrating please wait….' appears.
4. Let go - calibration is done.

We don't endorse any particular make or model, but the PX300 charger (fitted across the EC400/EC400+, EC500, EC600, EC700, EC800 and EC328 systems) suits the great majority of good-quality AGM batteries sold in the UK. Its charge profile is included in the instruction manual attached to its product page - if you're at all unsure whether a battery is compatible, check with that battery's own distributor or manufacturer first.

How much solar you can add through the PSU comes down to the fuse protecting that circuit, which varies by system - the maximum recommended wattage through the PSU is 120W for EC325/EC328/EC500/EC600, 80W for EC400, and 150W for EC700/EC800/EC400+. You can go beyond that by wiring extra panels straight onto the leisure battery via their own regulator and a correctly-sized fuse, though you'll lose the ability to see that extra solar's output on the control panel.

Any system without a PSU solar input at all needs its solar wired directly onto the leisure battery this way regardless - and there's no upper wattage limit when connecting straight to the battery like this.

Yes, interior heating is possible both with and without water content, depending on the operational setting.

Straight away, remove any ignition sources - put out naked flames, don't touch electrical switches, phones or radios, and don't start the engine. Open the windows and doors, get everyone out of the vehicle, shut off the gas cylinders or external gas supply, and have the whole system checked and repaired by a qualified expert.

If the vehicle is not in use during freezing periods, you must completely drain the water container via the safety/drain valve (FrostControl or manual drain valve). The system does not feature an internal active frost protection mechanism that prevents freezing without draining.

Yes, as long as a suitable safety shut-off device - for example a gas pressure regulator like Truma's MonoControl CS - is fitted in line with UN ECE Regulation 122, to stop gas escaping uncontrolled in a crash.

Let the heater cool, remove the cover over the electrical connector, and press the switch's reset button.

Green means operational, and yellow indicates the warm water heat-up phase.

You can select 900 W or 1800 W depending on the setting.

Climate class SN (which Dometic calls 'Extended Temperate') means the fridge is designed to work reliably when the air temperature is from +10°C up to +32°C (taken at the bottom vent grille, outside the vehicle).

In a hot summer the outside temperature often reaches about 32°C - the top of the fridge's rated range - and once it climbs higher, the temperature inside the fridge will inevitably rise. An absorption fridge needs a heat source to move its refrigerant around the cooling unit (which is why it can run on 12V, 230V or gas), so it has to get rid of the heat from its power source as well as the heat drawn out of the food compartment.

To help it in hot weather: park where the fridge vents get as much shade as possible during the day; unclip the outside vent grilles to improve airflow; and if you regularly travel somewhere hot, consider having a ventilator kit (a fan fitted behind the fridge) installed to boost the airflow - Dometic lists these among its accessories.

The RM(X)8xxx range can take an S+ signal on its control board, which lets it pick solar-supplied DC power when it's available. For this you need a solar regulator from Dometic's Büttner range that has a signal output cable, wired to S+. The panel charges the leisure battery (or batteries), and whenever the regulator signals that solar power is available, the fridge gives it top priority in AES (automatic) mode.

In automatic mode the fridge chooses its energy source in this order: solar DC first, then mains AC, then ordinary 12V DC, and gas last. Most AES set-ups take their 12V feed from the vehicle's starter battery, with the alternator's D+ signal allowing DC operation; to use the S+ signal instead, you'll need a changeover switch so the 12V heating element is supplied from the leisure battery rather than the vehicle battery.

On 12V the element is rated 120-190W, so the fridge draws a continuous 10-15A on DC - more than most vehicles' leisure batteries can sustain for long, which is why this solar/DC mode tends to be used where the fridge is fitted in a beach hut or similar off-grid building. Bear in mind that changing the vehicle's wiring could void your warranty - Dometic advises checking with your dealer first.

Dometic's 2023 'New for old - simply swap' guide covers both its absorption and compressor fridges, showing which current models replace older ones. It's available from the catalogues section of Dometic's website.

Check the fuse in the mains supply and replace it if it has blown, and make sure the vehicle is actually plugged into a mains supply. If both are fine, the AC heating element may have failed - that needs an authorised Dometic service centre.

Possible causes, and what to do: the vehicle's own fuse has blown - replace it (see the vehicle's handbook); the vehicle battery is flat - test it and recharge it; the ignition is off - switch it on. If the fuse in the fridge's DC cable has blown (the fuse on the relay) or the DC heating element has failed, contact an authorised Dometic service centre.

Check the gas cylinder isn't empty (change it if it is) and that the gas valve is turned on. If air has got into the gas pipe, turn the fridge off and on again, repeating this three or four times if needed; if a gas hob or cooker is fitted, switch that on, then try the fridge again if needed.

The mains voltage is too low. The fridge switches back to mains by itself once the supply voltage recovers.

Work through the likely causes: the cooling unit isn't getting enough air - make sure the outside vent grilles aren't blocked; the evaporator has iced up - check the door shuts properly and the seal is seated and undamaged, then defrost the fridge; the temperature setting is too warm - turn it to a colder setting; it's very hot outside - take the vent grille off for a while so hot air can escape faster; too much food, or too much warm food, went in at once - take some out, and let warm food cool before putting it back; the fridge was only switched on recently - give it four to five hours, then recheck the temperature.

Weekly, press and hold the test/reset button for about a second - this checks the sounder, battery and circuitry together. Wipe or gently vacuum away any dust buildup, and change the battery roughly once a year even if it hasn't complained yet. The sensor itself is only rated for seven years from when it was first activated, after which the whole unit needs swapping for a new one, not just the battery.

Pull the safety catch upward to release the waste-holding tank, then slide it out, tipping it slightly as it comes free. Stand it upright with the emptying spout facing up, unscrew the cap, and pour in the recommended amount of Thetford toilet fluid plus about 2 litres of water to cover the base. Screw the cap back on, return the spout to its stored position, then slot the tank back in through the access door and re-secure the safety catch.

Open the fresh water tank's drain valve, then the wastewater tank's (into a suitable container), then leave every tap inside the vehicle open (mixer taps set to their central position). There's also an internal drain valve that clears the water heater and its own pipework - open that too, give the vehicle five minutes to finish draining, then briefly run the pump to clear any water left in it. Empty the cassette toilet too.