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Auto-Trail • Apache • 632 • 2008
Complete guide — 98 diagnostic faults and 32 FAQs across 9 categories, assembled from every category document and cross-referenced part covering this exact edition.
Auto-TrailAwning (Tracker / Apache, 2008 Model Year)
Awning0001 FAQ
Awning (Tracker / Apache, 2008 Model Year)
AwningFrequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I wind the wind-out awning in and out?
Locate the socket on the left side of the awning case and insert the winding handle, then turn clockwise - the fabric starts to unroll after a couple of turns. Once it's out to about a metre, stop and lower the support legs, adjusting their length until they reach the ground, then keep unrolling until the awning is fully extended.
Adjust the legs' height so the fabric sits taut and rain can run off, then pull the handle back out. It's worth pegging the legs down too. To put it away, reverse the process - wind anti-clockwise until it snaps back into the box, then keep turning slowly until the handle stops, which locks it shut.
Auto-TrailChassis & Running Gear (Tracker / Apache, 2008 Model Year)
Chassis / Towing Control2000 FAQs
Chassis & Running Gear (Tracker / Apache, 2008 Model Year)
Chassis / Towing ControlMaster Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | Folding step feels loose, wobbles, or won't retain securely when closed | Worn step pivots or a worn/damaged retaining mechanism. | Check the step pivots for wear, and confirm the step stays firmly retained once it's folded shut. Where a warning light is fitted, make sure that switch still operates as expected. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Corner steady wobbles, feels loose, or is stiff to wind out | A loose chassis attachment, or a dry/stiff screw thread on the steady itself. | Check that the corner steadies' chassis attachments are secure, and make sure each steady winds out smoothly without wobbling once extended. If they've become stiff, a light lubrication of the screw thread usually sorts it. | DIY Safe |
SargentEC100 Series Systems
Battery Charger / Power Management0007 FAQs
EC100 Series Systems
Battery Charger / Power ManagementTechnical Specifications
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is it possible to charge the vehicle (starter) battery using my system?
Whether you can depends on which type of Sargent PSU system you have - manual-charging or CAN-bus based.
On systems that only charge manually - PSU2007 with EC200, EC328, EC325, EC225 with EC100, EC176 with EC361/2/3, and EC155 with EC50/51 - the leisure battery is charged by default: with the control panel switched off, the mains charger starts charging the leisure battery the moment it's plugged in, and with the panel on, it keeps the leisure battery topped up while also powering the leisure loads. To charge the vehicle battery instead, switch the control panel on and pick the vehicle battery - the charger then charges that battery along with any leisure loads left switched on. Note that EC100, EC200, EC325 and EC50/51 panels won't allow the vehicle battery to be selected below 10.9V, while EC328 panels (software V2.21) will allow it above 2V provided the mains charger is on. If mains power is lost while charging the vehicle battery, leisure loads will start drawing from it instead - switching back to the leisure battery once the vehicle battery either falls below the 10.9V cut-off or, if it started above that, once it recovers back up to 10.9V. The leisure battery itself has its own 9V cut-off that disconnects leisure loads to stop it discharging further.
CAN-bus systems (the EC800, EC700, EC600, EC500, EC450 and EC400) include a smart-charge feature instead, on by default but switchable off. With the mains charger on, it defaults to charging the leisure battery while keeping an eye on the vehicle battery - if that drops below 12.4V, charging switches to it for 4 hours, then returns to the leisure battery for another 4 hours, repeating the cycle for as long as the vehicle battery stays low. This runs regardless of whether the control panel is on, as long as the system's own shutdown button is switched in (unless you've disabled the feature) - and if the panel is on, you can manually pick whichever battery you want charged at any point in the cycle.
Q: Why do the LEDs on my EC155 control panel flash while I'm driving?
On newer panels with blue LEDs, seeing the Leisure select & levels and Vehicle select & levels LEDs both flashing while you drive is completely normal - it just means the EC155 is picking up the engine run signal, so its internal split-charge relay has engaged. On older panels with green LEDs, the same thing is shown by the middle yellow LED flashing instead.
Either way, once the EC155 detects that engine run signal, it also switches off the 12V supply to the living area.
Q: How do I calibrate the EC480 battery amps and battery size?
Turn off the van's 12V supply, then go to the screen showing the manufacturer's logo (e.g. Autotrail) and press the Up and Down arrows at the same time to enter programming mode, then navigate to (a) Battery Size - set to the right capacity - and (b) AH Start Point - which should be your battery's estimated charge, i.e. 100% if fully charged - using Select (<) to adjust each. Scroll to 'Exit Advanced' and press Select to leave.
Q: Can I fit a Lithium battery to my system?
Most Sargent systems use a PX300 or PF200 battery charger. If yours has a different charger fitted, check with that charger's own manufacturer for Lithium compatibility. The PX300's charging profile suits many leisure-industry Lithium batteries that have their own internal Battery Management System (BMS) - its charging profile and voltages are available as a downloadable attachment on the PX300's own product page, though you'll still need to confirm suitability directly with your chosen battery's manufacturer.
Systems that use a PX300 include the EC800, EC700, EC600, EC500, EC400 series, EC400+ and EC328. If your system doesn't have a PX300, its charger will run a fixed 13.8V, which generally isn't suitable for fully charging a Lithium battery - and switching to Lithium may also mean you need a DC-DC charger to keep the charging current within limits.
Q: Can I fit a second leisure battery to my Auto-Trail motorhome?
On an Auto-Trail, adding an extra leisure battery is normally simple - every current model and most older ones already have a dedicated connector, so the extra battery harness just plugs in.
Ideally pick a second battery of the same make, type and capacity as the one you have. If that's not possible, at least keep the capacity the same and never mix battery types (for example, don't pair a 'wet' battery with an AGM one).
Sargent sells the harness through its web shop (https://sargentltd.co.uk/shop/product/auto_trail_additional_battery_harness_2011-2016/229). It's the newer type, fitted to Auto-Trail vans from 2011, but it suits older vans too because the battery connector hasn't changed.
To fit it:
- Connect the harness to the new battery, making sure both terminals are tight and their covers are back on.
- Secure the battery in its box or compartment (this varies by year and model) without trapping the harness.
- Take the protective cap off the vehicle's spare battery connector.
- Plug the new battery in.
With an EC328 or EC700 system, that's it - the extra battery is ready to charge and use.
With an EC500 and the EC480 colour LCD panel, also set the battery size to the new total in the advanced settings (two 100Ah batteries means 200Ah), then recalibrate the current sensor.
To change the battery size:
- On the home screen showing the brand logo, press both the up and down arrows at once and keep them pressed.
- Let go once the screen changes.
- Scroll to 'Battery Size' and use select to raise it to the new total.
- Go back up to 'Exit Advanced', then press select to return to normal use.
Don't worry if the Ah reading drops afterwards - it takes a few charge and discharge cycles to line up with the real capacity, which is normal.
To recalibrate the current sensor:
- Turn the charger off, and switch the control panel off at its power button.
- Go to the active battery screen.
- Hold select until 'calibrating please wait….' appears.
- Let go - calibration is done.
Q: Can I fit a different make of AGM battery?
We don't endorse any particular make or model, but the PX300 charger (fitted across the EC400/EC400+, EC500, EC600, EC700, EC800 and EC328 systems) suits the great majority of good-quality AGM batteries sold in the UK. Its charge profile is included in the instruction manual attached to its product page - if you're at all unsure whether a battery is compatible, check with that battery's own distributor or manufacturer first.
Q: Can I connect additional solar panels to my system?
How much solar you can add through the PSU comes down to the fuse protecting that circuit, which varies by system - the maximum recommended wattage through the PSU is 120W for EC325/EC328/EC500/EC600, 80W for EC400, and 150W for EC700/EC800/EC400+. You can go beyond that by wiring extra panels straight onto the leisure battery via their own regulator and a correctly-sized fuse, though you'll lose the ability to see that extra solar's output on the control panel.
Any system without a PSU solar input at all needs its solar wired directly onto the leisure battery this way regardless - and there's no upper wattage limit when connecting straight to the battery like this.
SargentEC200 Series Systems
Battery Charger / Power Management11442 FAQs
EC200 Series Systems
Battery Charger / Power ManagementTechnical Specifications
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | No 240V power - the hook-up lead isn't connected between the site and the vehicle | The hook-up lead from the site to the vehicle isn't plugged in. | Plug the hook-up lead in at both ends, following the mains hook-up steps, and make sure it's pushed fully into the socket on the bottom of the PSU2007 too. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 240 volt output - RCD switched off | RCD switched off. | Reset the RCD as per the mains connection instructions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 240 volt output - RCD not operating correctly | RCD not operating correctly. | Check the supply's polarity. If the RCD keeps tripping, there's most likely a wiring or equipment fault, so call your dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 240 volt output - MCB switched off | MCB switched off. | Reset the MCB: switch it off (down), then on again (up). If it keeps tripping, there's most likely a wiring or equipment fault, so call your dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 240V power - the site's supply is off or too weak | No or deficient supply from the site. | Contact the site warden for assistance. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | No 240 volt output - other fault | Other fault. | Contact your dealer. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | No 12V power - there's no mains (240V) supply | No 240v supply. | Check the 240V supply first: the hook-up lead is plugged in at both ends (including the socket on the bottom of the PSU2007), the RCD and MCB are both switched on (reset either one if it has tripped), and the site's own supply is actually live. If the site's supply is the problem, ask the site warden for help; if none of these is the cause, contact your dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 12 volt output - charger not switched on | Charger not switched on. | Turn the charger switch to on (I); it lights up when it is on. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12 volt output - battery not connected and/or charged | Battery not connected and/or charged. | Install a charged battery as per the battery type/selection instructions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12V power - the control panel's power switch is off | The control panel's power switch is off. | Turn the power on at the control panel. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12V power - the battery is flat or its fuse has blown | Battery flat or battery fuse blown. | Recharge the battery, check the fuses, and confirm charging voltage is actually reaching the battery. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12 volt output - fuse blown | Fuse blown. | Make sure every fuse is sound and is the rating shown in the vehicle's fuse table. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12 volt output - equipment switched off / unplugged | Equipment switched off or unplugged. | Make sure the appliance is switched on and plugged into the 12V supply. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12 volt output - other fault | Other fault. | Contact your dealer. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Control panel has no display | Batteries discharged, PSU2007 charger switch off, or mains supply not connected. | Check the batteries, switch the PSU2007's charger on and make sure the mains supply is plugged in. Then check the control panel's connecting lead, both at the PSU2007 and behind the panel. If it still won't work, contact your dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | 12v power turns off unexpectedly | Either the battery-save feature has cut in to protect the vehicle battery (because the leisure battery is flat), or the engine has been started, which switches all the equipment off to meet EMC rules. | This is normal protective behaviour in both cases - no fault action needed. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control panel display corrupt / erratic function | Display fault or the control panel needs rebooting. | Reboot the control panel: pull its bezel down and lift it forward to take it off, remove the two fixing screws and unplug the panel's lead. After half a minute, plug it back in and put it back together. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control panel contrast poor | Contrast preset needs adjusting. | Observe the control panel handling instructions. Take off the control panel bezel and undo the two fixing screws to bring the panel out, but don't unplug it. Adjust the contrast preset on the back of the control panel using a jeweller's screwdriver. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control panel current reading incorrect | Current sensor needs calibrating. | Contact your dealer for the current calibration process. | Professional Intervention Required |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is it possible to charge the vehicle (starter) battery using my system?
Whether you can depends on which type of Sargent PSU system you have - manual-charging or CAN-bus based.
On systems that only charge manually - PSU2007 with EC200, EC328, EC325, EC225 with EC100, EC176 with EC361/2/3, and EC155 with EC50/51 - the leisure battery is charged by default: with the control panel switched off, the mains charger starts charging the leisure battery the moment it's plugged in, and with the panel on, it keeps the leisure battery topped up while also powering the leisure loads. To charge the vehicle battery instead, switch the control panel on and pick the vehicle battery - the charger then charges that battery along with any leisure loads left switched on. Note that EC100, EC200, EC325 and EC50/51 panels won't allow the vehicle battery to be selected below 10.9V, while EC328 panels (software V2.21) will allow it above 2V provided the mains charger is on. If mains power is lost while charging the vehicle battery, leisure loads will start drawing from it instead - switching back to the leisure battery once the vehicle battery either falls below the 10.9V cut-off or, if it started above that, once it recovers back up to 10.9V. The leisure battery itself has its own 9V cut-off that disconnects leisure loads to stop it discharging further.
CAN-bus systems (the EC800, EC700, EC600, EC500, EC450 and EC400) include a smart-charge feature instead, on by default but switchable off. With the mains charger on, it defaults to charging the leisure battery while keeping an eye on the vehicle battery - if that drops below 12.4V, charging switches to it for 4 hours, then returns to the leisure battery for another 4 hours, repeating the cycle for as long as the vehicle battery stays low. This runs regardless of whether the control panel is on, as long as the system's own shutdown button is switched in (unless you've disabled the feature) - and if the panel is on, you can manually pick whichever battery you want charged at any point in the cycle.
Q: Why do the LEDs on my EC155 control panel flash while I'm driving?
On newer panels with blue LEDs, seeing the Leisure select & levels and Vehicle select & levels LEDs both flashing while you drive is completely normal - it just means the EC155 is picking up the engine run signal, so its internal split-charge relay has engaged. On older panels with green LEDs, the same thing is shown by the middle yellow LED flashing instead.
Either way, once the EC155 detects that engine run signal, it also switches off the 12V supply to the living area.
Auto-TrailGas Supply System (Tracker / Apache, 2008 Model Year)
Gas Regulator / Supply2000 FAQs
Gas Supply System (Tracker / Apache, 2008 Model Year)
Gas Regulator / SupplyMaster Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | The gas flame lifts clear of the burner instead of sitting on it. | Gas pressure is too high | Go back over the regulator, gas cylinders, and pipework, and make any adjustments needed. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Yellow flame causing soot | Gas pressure is too low | Go back over the regulator, gas cylinders, and pipework, and make any adjustments needed. | DIY Safe |
TrumaCombi (E)
Heating System (Space/Water)29117 FAQs
Combi (E)
Heating System (Space/Water)Technical Specifications
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | The water's taking a really long time to heat up | Water container furred | Descale the water system with a commercial descaler, vinegar essence, or citric acid, per the maintenance instructions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water's running off - the boiler won't fill | Safety / drain valve open | Close the safety/drain valve - check the rotary switch is on 'operation', then push the button in until it clicks. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The boiler won't drain, even with the safety/drain valve open | Safety / drain valve drainage socket blocked | Check opening for soiling such as slush, ice, or leaves, and remove obstruction if necessary. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water's dripping or flowing from the safety/drain valve's drainage socket | Water pressure too high | Check the pump pressure stays under 2.8 bar, fitting a pressure reducer if it's on mains water. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The FrostControl opens after the heater's been switched off | Temperature at the FrostControl dropped below approximately 3 °C, causing it to open automatically | Switch the heater on to warm the installation compartment - without it running, the FrostControl won't close again until it reaches roughly 7°C, unless an optional FrostControl heating element is fitted. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The FrostControl won't close any more | Either the FrostControl's own temperature is below roughly 7°C, or the rotary switch isn't set to operation | Switch the heater on to bring the surroundings above 7°C, or turn the FrostControl's rotary switch to operation and press the pushbutton in until it clicks. Contact an authorised service agent if this doesn't fix it. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
W255H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code W255H | Heater has no 12V power supply. | Ensure that the 12V power supply is available. | DIY Safe |
W255H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code W255H | No connection between heater and control panel. | Make connection between heater and control panel. | DIY Safe |
W302H / W418H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code W302H or W418H | Low voltage - the 12V supply to the heater is too low. | Charge the battery. If necessary, replace the old battery. | DIY Safe |
W303H / W411H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code W303H or W411H | Risk of low voltage - battery voltage is too low (below 10.4V). | Charge the battery. | DIY Safe |
W401H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code W401H | Summer mode with empty water container. | Switch the heater off and allow it to cool. Fill the boiler with water. | DIY Safe |
W402H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code W402H (warm air temperature exceeded) | Not all warm air ducts are connected. | Check whether the 4 warm air ducts are connected. | DIY Safe |
W402H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code W402H (warm air temperature exceeded) | Warm air outlets blocked. | Check the individual outlet openings. | DIY Safe |
W402H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code W402H (warm air temperature exceeded) | Circulated air intake blocked. | Remove the circulated air intake blockage. | DIY Safe |
W407H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code W407H | No 230V operating voltage. | Restore 230V operating voltage. | DIY Safe |
W407H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code W407H | 230V fuse defective. | Replace the 230V fuse (see Combi operating instructions). | DIY Safe |
W408H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code W408H | No gas supply in Mix mode. | Check the gas supply. See fault code E507H (electronic heating continues in Mix mode). | DIY Safe |
W412H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code W412H | Window above the cowl is open (window switch). | Close the window. | DIY Safe |
E507H / E516H / E517H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code E507H, E516H, or E517H | Gas cylinder empty. | Replace the gas cylinder. | DIY Safe |
E507H / E516H / E517H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code E507H, E516H, or E517H | The gas cylinder or its quick-acting valve is closed. | Check the gas supply and open the valves. | DIY Safe |
E507H / E516H / E517H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code E507H, E516H, or E517H | Gas pressure regulation system iced up. | Use a regulator heater (EisEx). | DIY Safe |
E507H / E516H / E517H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code E507H, E516H, or E517H | Butane content in the gas cylinder too high. | Use propane - butane is unsuitable for heating, particularly at temperatures below 10C. | DIY Safe |
E507H / E516H / E517H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code E507H, E516H, or E517H | Combustion air infeed or exhaust outlet is sealed. | Check the openings for anything blocking them (slush, ice, leaves, etc.) and clear it away. | DIY Safe |
E507H / E516H / E517H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code E507H, E516H, or E517H | Gas pressure regulation system faulty. | Inspect and, if necessary, replace the gas pressure regulation system. | DIY Safe |
E607H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code E607H | Maximum number of fault resets reached. | Wait 15 minutes and reset the fault. | DIY Safe |
E621H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code E621H | Room temperature sensor or cable faulty. | Inspect the room temperature sensor cable, replace if faulty. | DIY Safe |
E624H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code E624H | Frost Control heating element has a short circuit. | Disconnect the heating element plug from the electronic control unit and replace the heating element. | DIY Safe |
E632H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code E632H | Overheating protection has been triggered. | Reset overheating protection (see Combi operating instructions). | DIY Safe |
E514H | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code E-514-H | The vehicle was powered down at the master switch/control panel before the correct shutdown procedure was completed (the control panel's rotary push button must be held for 3 seconds to power it down first, before powering down the van at the master switch). | Keep the power on and wait until the error code stops flashing (approx. 15 minutes), then press the rotary push button twice to continue as normal. To avoid recurrence, always press and hold the rotary push button for 3 seconds to power down the control panel before powering down the van at the master switch. | DIY Safe |
#41 | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code #41 | Electronics blocked. | Get in touch with Truma's service team. | Professional Intervention Required |
#43 | Combi Gas Heater control panel displays fault code #43 | Overvoltage above 16.4V | Check the battery voltage and the voltage sources feeding it, such as the charger. | DIY Safe |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can the Combi be operated without water in the tank?
Yes, interior heating is possible both with and without water content, depending on the operational setting.
Q: I can smell gas inside the vehicle - what should I do?
Straight away, remove any ignition sources - put out naked flames, don't touch electrical switches, phones or radios, and don't start the engine. Open the windows and doors, get everyone out of the vehicle, shut off the gas cylinders or external gas supply, and have the whole system checked and repaired by a qualified expert.
Q: How do I protect the water boiler from frost damage?
If the vehicle is not in use during freezing periods, you must completely drain the water container via the safety/drain valve (FrostControl or manual drain valve). The system does not feature an internal active frost protection mechanism that prevents freezing without draining.
Q: Can the Truma Combi be operated while driving?
Yes, as long as a suitable safety shut-off device - for example a gas pressure regulator like Truma's MonoControl CS - is fitted in line with UN ECE Regulation 122, to stop gas escaping uncontrolled in a crash.
Q: How do I reset the 230V overheating protection on Combi E models?
Let the heater cool, remove the cover over the electrical connector, and press the switch's reset button.
Q: What do the different LED colors mean for the operating mode?
Green means operational, and yellow indicates the warm water heat-up phase.
Q: What electrical power levels are available in electrical mode?
You can select 900 W or 1800 W depending on the setting.
TrumaTrumatic S 3002 P / S 3002 / S 5002
Space Heater9105 FAQs
Trumatic S 3002 P / S 3002 / S 5002
Space HeaterTechnical Specifications
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
No ignition sparks or sparks occurring slower than once per second | Depleted or dead battery in the automatic ignition unit, or bad connection. | — | Replace the battery (Mignon LR 6, AA, AM 3) with a temperature-resistant (+70 °C), leak-proof type with the heater switched off. | DIY Safe |
Gas line filled with air after cylinder change | Air trapped in the gas supply line preventing immediate combustion. | — | Hold the control knob fully depressed and actuate the igniter continuously for up to 2 minutes until the flame ignites. | DIY Safe |
Flame fails to light or goes out repeatedly | Faulty regulator, closed valve, or air in lines. | — | Wait at least 2 minutes before attempting a new ignition to prevent flashbacks. Verify gas supply and regulator condition. | DIY Safe |
No ignition sparking heard / monitor lamp 'e' not flashing | The battery on the auto ignitor is depleted or needs replacement. | — | Replace the battery with a temperature-resistant (+70 °C), leakproof Mignon battery (LR 6, AA, AM 3) with correct polarity. | DIY Safe |
Flame goes out repeatedly in windy conditions or winter | Extreme wind conditions or snow buildup are affecting the cowl. | — | Clear snow from the cowl and consider using a cowl extension such as AKV or SKV. | DIY Safe |
Gas line is air-filled during initial start | Air trapped in the gas supply line delays it lighting straight away. | — | Hold the control knob down and constantly actuate the igniter for up to two minutes until the gas is available and the flame burns. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Blown air not working | Supply fuse blown. | Replace the fuse. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Blown air running slowly | Hair or dust in the fan wheel, affecting the balance of the blown-air system. | Electrically isolate and clear with a brush; close/open to re-balance the system. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Blown air only blowing on one leg of the ducting system | A pipe is disconnected, or the fan paddle is not correctly positioned. | Check all pipe connections. Check the position of the paddle to ensure air flows in one direction. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Heater goes out when a door is slammed | The flue is disconnected or damaged. | Turn the heater off immediately and seek service attention. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can the Trumatic S 5002 be installed in motorhomes?
No, the Trumatic S 5002 heating system must not be installed in motorhomes. Only the Trumatic S 3002 (P) is permitted in motorhomes.
Q: What should I do if there is a gas leak or smell of gas?
Put out all naked flames right away, don't smoke, switch off every appliance, close the gas cylinder, open the windows and doors, avoid electrical switches, and have an expert inspect the whole system.
Q: How do I replace the battery in the automatic igniter?
Remove the heater casing, slide the battery compartment cover upwards, replace the battery observing correct plus/minus polarity, and close the compartment. Use only temperature-resistant (+70 °C) leak-proof Mignon LR 6, AA, AM 3 batteries.
Q: If the heater fails to start, how long should I wait before trying to re-ignite?
Wait at least 2 minutes before re-igniting, to avoid any risk of deflagration or misfiring.
Q: What type of battery should be used for the automatic ignition device?
Only use temperature-resistant (+70°C), leak-proof Mignon batteries (LR 6, AA, AM 3).
DometicRM7000 Series
Fridge / Freezer4008 FAQs
RM7000 Series
Fridge / FreezerTechnical Specifications
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | Refrigerator does not function on gas mode | Gas bottle empty or gas tap closed | Replace gas bottle and open all gas supply isolation valves | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not function on 12V DC | Blown 12V fuse or battery not charged | Replace fuse or recharge/check vehicle battery and engine connection | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not function on 230V AC | Blown 230V fuse or external power disconnected | Replace fuse or verify external mains power supply connection; on AES-equipped units, insufficient supply voltage can make the fridge switch itself over to gas operation automatically, reverting to 230V once voltage is adequate again. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently | Inadequate ventilation of the unit or incorrect thermostat setting | Check the ventilation grilles aren't covered, set the thermostat higher, check the door seals properly when shut if the condenser has iced up, let warm food cool before it goes in, and if the fridge has only just been switched on, give it several hours before checking again. | DIY Safe |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What does the SN climate class on my Dometic RM fridge mean?
Climate class SN (which Dometic calls 'Extended Temperate') means the fridge is designed to work reliably when the air temperature is from +10°C up to +32°C (taken at the bottom vent grille, outside the vehicle).
Q: How well does an absorption fridge cool in hot weather?
In a hot summer the outside temperature often reaches about 32°C - the top of the fridge's rated range - and once it climbs higher, the temperature inside the fridge will inevitably rise. An absorption fridge needs a heat source to move its refrigerant around the cooling unit (which is why it can run on 12V, 230V or gas), so it has to get rid of the heat from its power source as well as the heat drawn out of the food compartment.
To help it in hot weather: park where the fridge vents get as much shade as possible during the day; unclip the outside vent grilles to improve airflow; and if you regularly travel somewhere hot, consider having a ventilator kit (a fan fitted behind the fridge) installed to boost the airflow - Dometic lists these among its accessories.
Q: What can replace my old Dometic RM fridge?
Dometic's 2023 'New for old - simply swap' guide covers both its absorption and compressor fridges, showing which current models replace older ones. It's available from the catalogues section of Dometic's website.
Q: My fridge won't work on mains (AC) power - what should I check?
Check the fuse in the mains supply and replace it if it has blown, and make sure the vehicle is actually plugged into a mains supply. If both are fine, the AC heating element may have failed - that needs an authorised Dometic service centre.
Q: My fridge won't work on 12V (DC) - what should I check?
Possible causes, and what to do: the vehicle's own fuse has blown - replace it (see the vehicle's handbook); the vehicle battery is flat - test it and recharge it; the ignition is off - switch it on. If the fuse in the fridge's DC cable has blown (the fuse on the relay) or the DC heating element has failed, contact an authorised Dometic service centre.
Q: My fridge won't work on gas - what should I check?
Check the gas cylinder isn't empty (change it if it is) and that the gas valve is turned on. If air has got into the gas pipe, turn the fridge off and on again, repeating this three or four times if needed; if a gas hob or cooker is fitted, switch that on, then try the fridge again if needed.
Q: Why is my fridge running on gas in automatic mode when I'm plugged into mains?
The mains voltage is too low. The fridge switches back to mains by itself once the supply voltage recovers.
Q: Why isn't my fridge getting cold enough?
Work through the likely causes: the cooling unit isn't getting enough air - make sure the outside vent grilles aren't blocked; the evaporator has iced up - check the door shuts properly and the seal is seated and undamaged, then defrost the fridge; the temperature setting is too warm - turn it to a colder setting; it's very hot outside - take the vent grille off for a while so hot air can escape faster; too much food, or too much warm food, went in at once - take some out, and let warm food cool before putting it back; the fridge was only switched on recently - give it four to five hours, then recheck the temperature.
ThetfordN145/N150/N180 Refrigerator (Auto-Trail & Auto-Sleepers/Coachman fitment, 2004-2010)
Fridge / Freezer9290 FAQs
N145/N150/N180 Refrigerator (Auto-Trail & Auto-Sleepers/Coachman fitment, 2004-2010)
Fridge / FreezerTechnical Specifications
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | The fridge fails to work | — | Ensure the correct procedure has been followed for starting the refrigerator. Check that the fridge is level. Ascertain whether it is possible to run the fridge on any of the energy sources. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge fails to work using gas | Empty gas bottle or a closed LP gas valve. | Make sure the gas bottle is not empty. Make sure all LP gas valves are open. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge does not work on 12V | No 12V supply, a blown fuse, or the 12V switch is off. | Check the 12V supply is connected to the refrigerator. Ensure the fuse on the 12V supply is intact. Check the 12V switch is on. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge fails to work on 230V | No 230V supply or a blown fuse. | Check the 230V supply is connected to the fridge. Make sure the fuse is intact. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The fridge is not cold enough | Inadequate ventilation (partial blockage of the grilles), a frosted-up evaporator, incorrect temperature control setting, incorrect gas pressure, or ambient temperature too high. | Check ventilation passages/grilles are not blocked. Check the evaporator for frost build-up. Check the temperature control setting. Check the gas pressure regulator at the gas container. Be aware very high ambient temperatures can reduce cooling performance. | DIY Safe |
1 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 1 (AC heater low current) | AC heating element drawing lower current than expected. | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
2 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 2 (DC heater low current) | DC heating element drawing lower current than expected. | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
3 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 3 (AC heater ON, should be OFF) | AC heater failing to switch off correctly. | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
4 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 4 (DC heater ON, should be OFF) | DC heater failing to switch off correctly. | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
5 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 5 (senses flame when gas should be OFF) | Flame sensor detecting a flame that should not be present. | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
6 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 6 (senses gas output terminal ON when should be OFF) | Gas output terminal fault. | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
7 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 7 (senses gas output terminal OFF when should be ON) | Gas output terminal fault. | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
8 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 8 (AC mains supply is 20% below nominal) | Controls are in manual AC mode but the voltage supply is too low. | Check 230V is plugged in - if so, the voltage supply is too low. Contact the site owner. | DIY Safe |
9 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 9 (gas lock-out because flame fails to ignite after 30 seconds) | Controls are in manual gas mode but the flame fails to ignite - gas cylinder empty or isolation valve closed. | Check if the gas cylinder is empty, or if the isolation valve is closed. Select another energy source. Reset the refrigerator 3 or 4 times in gas mode until the flame ignites. Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre if the problem persists. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
10 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 10 (no 'engine running' signal present in manual DC mode) | Controls are in manual DC mode and the engine is not running - the refrigerator can only cool on 12V when the engine is running. | Start the engine or select a different energy source. | DIY Safe |
11 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 11 (no energy source available in AUTO mode) | Controls are in AUTO mode but no energy source is available. | Start the engine, connect the 230V supply, or open the gas supply, then reset the refrigerator by turning it off and on again. | DIY Safe |
12 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 12 | — | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
13 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 13 (thermistor fails, control automatically switches to Backup mode (BOS)) | Thermistor connector not correctly plugged in. | Check if the connector above the fin on the inside of the cabinet is correctly plugged in. If so, contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
14 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 14 (display board and power board lost communication with each other) | — | Contact your dealer or Thetford Service Centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
18 | Refrigerator LCD displays fault code 18 on start-up | Normal start-up behaviour - all LCD segments lighting is not a fault. | Wait a few seconds for the refrigerator to start up normally. No action needed. | DIY Safe |
Auto-TrailSmoke & CO Alarms (Tracker / Apache, 2008 Model Year)
Smoke / CO Alarm2000 FAQs
Smoke & CO Alarms (Tracker / Apache, 2008 Model Year)
Smoke / CO AlarmMaster Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | The smoke alarm gives a brief beep every minute. | The battery is worn out and needs replacing. | Replace the battery immediately. (Low voltage warning sounds for approximately seven days). | DIY Safe |
Recommended partsAffiliate linksView 2 optionsHideCheck which battery your smoke alarm takes (look at the battery fitted now), then choose the matching one: The handbook says the smoke alarm is battery-operated but doesn't name the battery type, so check yours before ordering. 9V batteryDuracell Plus 9V Alkaline Batteries (2 Pack) 6LR61~£6.50 for 24.7★ (15,000+ ratings), dispatched/sold by Amazon View on Amazon →AA batteriesDuracell Plus AA Alkaline Batteries (12 Pack) 1.5V, LR06~£9.00 for 124.7★ (71,000+ ratings), dispatched/sold by Amazon View on Amazon → | ||||
N/A | The smoke alarm's LED doesn't blink once a minute as it normally would. | Battery is completely flat | Replace the battery immediately. | DIY Safe |
Recommended partsAffiliate linksView 2 optionsHideCheck which battery your smoke alarm takes (look at the battery fitted now), then choose the matching one: The handbook says the smoke alarm is battery-operated but doesn't name the battery type, so check yours before ordering. 9V batteryDuracell Plus 9V Alkaline Batteries (2 Pack) 6LR61~£6.50 for 24.7★ (15,000+ ratings), dispatched/sold by Amazon View on Amazon →AA batteriesDuracell Plus AA Alkaline Batteries (12 Pack) 1.5V, LR06~£9.00 for 124.7★ (71,000+ ratings), dispatched/sold by Amazon View on Amazon → | ||||
Auto-TrailToilets & Sanitation (Tracker / Apache, 2008 Model Year)
Toilet0001 FAQ
Toilets & Sanitation (Tracker / Apache, 2008 Model Year)
ToiletFrequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I prepare the Thetford cassette waste-holding tank before using the toilet?
Pull the safety catch upward to release the waste-holding tank, then slide it out, tipping it slightly as it comes free. Stand it upright with the emptying spout facing up, unscrew the cap, and pour in the recommended amount of Thetford toilet fluid plus about 2 litres of water to cover the base. Screw the cap back on, return the spout to its stored position, then slot the tank back in through the access door and re-secure the safety catch.
Auto-TrailWater System (Tracker / Apache, 2008 Model Year)
Water System Component2001 FAQ
Water System (Tracker / Apache, 2008 Model Year)
Water System ComponentMaster Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | The water pump keeps running for more than 5 to 10 seconds after every tap has been shut off. | Possible leak in the system | Check the whole water system for leaks without delay, and make a habit of powering the pump down from its control panel every time you leave the vehicle. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Aerated water from a tap | There may be a leak on the pump's suction side. | Look for a leak where the pump draws water in and repair as needed. | DIY Safe |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I drain down the water system for winter or storage?
Open the fresh water tank's drain valve, then the wastewater tank's (into a suitable container), then leave every tap inside the vehicle open (mixer taps set to their central position). There's also an internal drain valve that clears the water heater and its own pipework - open that too, give the vehicle five minutes to finish draining, then briefly run the pump to clear any water left in it. Empty the cassette toilet too.
TrumaUltrastore Water Heater
Water Heater5100 FAQs
Ultrastore Water Heater
Water HeaterTechnical Specifications
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | The heater switches on but doesn't run (gas operation) | No 12V supply, or a window above the cowl is open. | Check the power supply is at least 10.5V, check the water heater's fuse, and shut any window that's above the cowl. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The heater switches on but doesn't run, and the red lamp comes on (gas operation) | Cowl cover fitted, air in the gas supply, no gas supply, or incorrect gas pressure. | Take off the cowl cover and/or clear any blockage. Check the gas valves and gas bottle. Switch the appliance off for 5 minutes and back on to unlock it and purge any trapped air. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The heater runs for a while, then the red lamp comes on (gas operation) | Over-temperature thermostat has operated. | Top up the water content if needed (close the drain valve first). Switch the appliance off for 5 minutes and back on to unlock it. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The heater won't run once switched on (electrical operation) | No 230V supply voltage, or the over-temperature thermostat has operated. | Connect to the site's mains supply and/or check the residual current breaker. Top up the water content if needed (close the drain valve first). The electric heating element has its own excess-temperature cut-out - use the control panel to turn it off, wait 5 minutes, then turn it back on. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The safety/drain valve is dripping water | Water pressure too high. | Check the water pressure doesn't exceed 2.8 bar - fit a pressure reducer if it's on mains water. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Hot water comes out when the cold tap is opened | Hot water flows back through the cold water supply. | Fit a non-return valve on the cold supply as the installation instructions describe. If it keeps happening, contact Truma Service. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
