Auto-Sleepers • Broadway • FB • 2021

Fit the crank handle to the right length and slot it into the bayonet socket, then turn it anticlockwise - keeping the handle down - to unroll the awning; it won't move for the first couple of turns. Once you've unrolled about a metre, put the support legs out before continuing. Slide the legs from the front profile, adjust them to height, and fasten them (rolling the fabric up slightly helps tension it, but don't extend the legs so high the fabric jams against the arms).

Fit the tension rafter too on larger models. If it's raining, drop one side so water runs off, and use the hold-down kit in gusty conditions - the front profile locks automatically once it's rolled back up.

By default it only activates when you select reverse. Should you want it running continuously instead, as a normal rear-view mirror, there's a small remote supplied alongside the monitor - hold it near the screen and give its button a single press to swap between the two modes.

It's operated by the switch next to the entrance door - hold it until the step is fully extended; don't try to mount it while it's still moving or only partway out, since the lock won't be engaged and you risk damaging the motor. If you drive off with it left out, a buzzer behind the dashboard sounds once the ignition's on and the step retracts automatically.

Dirt or frost can stop it working properly, so keep the moving parts clean and free of ice.

If you're using it when the outside temperature drops below 10°C, yes - fit the winter cover (supplied) to stop the cold air affecting performance. Take it off again once temperatures climb back above 10°C, or the fridge won't cool as well.

Contact the police first and get a crime reference number, then get in touch with Sargent - who design and run the tracking system independently of Auto-Sleepers - by calling 01482 678981 or visiting sargentltd.co.uk/tech-support. The tracking service needs an active annual subscription to work, and it depends on the leisure battery being kept properly charged.

If you change your phone number or sell the vehicle, update your details through Sargent's own registration system at asmonitor.azurewebsites.net.

The warning light comes on once the tank holds more than about 15 litres, leaving roughly 2 litres of spare capacity - good for around 5 more flushes. Empty it as soon as the light shows rather than letting it get any fuller.

With the valve blade closed, open the outside access door, pull up the safety catch and take the tank out. Carry it by its handles to a toilet or legal waste point, stand it upright with the emptying spout facing up, and take the cap off. Hold the tank by its upper handle, and once the spout is pointing down, use your thumb on the rear handle to hold the vent plunger in so it drains without splashing.

Once it's empty, flush it through and rinse the valve blade with water before sliding the tank back in and locking the door.

Yes, as long as it's in a heated part of the vehicle - otherwise there's a risk of the water inside freezing. If it isn't heated, drain the toilet the same way you would for storage: empty the flush water system and the waste tank, and leave the cap off the emptying spout so the tank can dry out.

Give the waste tank seal, the cap seal and the pressure-release vent seal a regular clean with Thetford Bathroom Cleaner - once a month is usually plenty if you're using the toilet often. Avoid household bleach, solvents or other harsh cleaners, as these can permanently damage the seals. Not using the toilet for a while?

Clean the seals and add a light coat of Thetford Seal Lubricant to keep them supple - Vaseline or vegetable oil will cause leaks, so steer clear of those. The valve blade's seal wears with use, so however well it's looked after, it'll eventually need replacing.

Open the drain valve next to the water heater, and leave the fresh and waste water tank drain taps open too. Open every internal tap, then run the pump until it stops delivering anything. Go for a short spin with those drain taps still open - it helps shift the last of the water out of the tanks and pipework. Pull the sink plugs so the system can breathe, give the waste tank a thorough flush to shift any debris, finish with a flush of mild disinfectant, and leave the drain tap open.

Push the plunger fully down and twist it clockwise - it locks flush with the floor. To use it again, twist the plunger anti-clockwise to release it, then pump with your foot: harder for full flow, gently for a more controlled flow.

Yes, as long as the system isn't pressurised - fit the Tiptoe pump between the inline electric pump and the water supply so it can act as a manual backup if the electric pump fails.

If you have a Whale Easi-Slide socket with a 12V connection, the Superfil kit lets you pump water into your onboard tank from an external container such as an Aquaroll or jerry can - so running out of water doesn't mean packing up to drive to the nearest tap.

It depends what you need. Whale's submersible pumps are simple, compact, quiet and inexpensive, and come in three flow rates: standard (10.3 litres/min), premium (13.2 litres/min) and high (15.8 litres/min). The Watermaster Onboard pressure pump (8 litres/min) is fitted inside the vehicle and gives a smooth, steady flow; it has its own built-in pressure switch, can run dry without damage, and is built to last.

Yes. A submersible pump is a centrifugal design with an impeller as its only moving part, so it runs very quietly. A pressure pump is simple to fit and very dependable, but it's noisier.

A Whale pressure switch is for vehicles fitted with a submersible pump: it senses the drop in water pressure when a tap is opened and turns the pump on. Because it works with any tap, you aren't restricted to taps with built-in microswitches.