Dometic • Sinewave Inverter

Dometic SinePower

Official technical documentation and workshop diagnostics for Dometic SinePower.

Technical Specifications

ElectricalInput voltage: 12 V DC (720-012PP) / 24 V DC (720-024PP); Input voltage range: 10-15 V (720-012PP) / 20-30 V (720-024PP); Constant output power: 150 W; Peak output power: 300 W; Maximum input current: 18 A (720-012PP) / 10 A (720-024PP); Output voltage: 230 V AC pure sine wave; Output frequency: 50 Hz; Idle current consumption: 0.5 A (720-012PP) / 0.3 A (720-024PP); Low voltage alarm: 10.5 V (720-012PP) / 21 V (720-024PP); Low voltage shutdown: 10 V (720-012PP) / 20 V (720-024PP); Minimum socket/cable/fuse rating: 15 A
Gas Or PressureNot applicable
Capacities DimensionsDimensions: 190 x 120 x 62 mm; Weight: 1.2 kg; Maximum ambient temperature: 50°C ± 5°C

Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix

Error Code / IndicatorSymptom / MeaningPossible CauseStep-by-Step DIY FixSuggested Actions
N/A
The inverter isn't working, and the status LED is off.
Either it's short-circuited 5 times in a row, or there's an insulation fault, break, or loose connection on the live cables.
Have an authorised service agent replace the device's fuse, and inspect the live cables for damaged insulation, breaks or loose connections.
Professional Intervention Required
N/A
The inverter isn't working, and the status LED lights red from high output current or a short circuit.
Too many connected loads or a generated short circuit.
Cut back the connected loads. Have an authorised service agent replace the device's fuse once it's tripped from excess current.
Professional Intervention Required
N/A
The inverter isn't working, and the status LED lights red from a high-temperature shutdown.
Internal temperature exceeds cut-off value or air inlets/outlets are obstructed.
Switch off the inverter and any connected loads, check the air inlets/outlets aren't blocked, and let it cool down.
DIY Safe
N/A
The inverter isn't working, and the status LED lights red from an overvoltage shutdown.
Battery voltage too high (Cut-off: 16.5V for 12V systems, 33V for 24V systems).
Reduce connected voltages. Inverter restarts automatically when voltage drops to restart value (15.5V for 12V, 31V for 24V). If error persists, increase cable cross-sections and reduce cable length.
DIY Safe
N/A
The inverter isn't working, and the status LED lights red from an undervoltage shutdown.
Battery voltage too low (Cut-off: 10.3V for 12V systems, 20.6V for 24V systems).
Allow the battery to recharge slowly. Inverter restarts automatically when voltage exceeds restart value (11.8V for 12V, 23.6V for 24V).
DIY Safe
N/A
No output voltage (ignition off)
The socket's only powered via the ignition, which is currently off
Switch on the ignition.
DIY Safe
N/A
No output voltage (low battery)
The battery has dropped below 10V (720-012PP) or 20V (720-024PP).
Recharge the battery by running the engine.
DIY Safe
N/A
No output voltage (thermal overload)
Thermal overload or overheating, or inadequate cable connection (cross-section too small)
Turn off the consumer unit, give the inverter better ventilation and let it cool, and check the cable connections.
DIY Safe
N/A
No output voltage (blown fuse)
A failed fuse in the vehicle or the inverter
Have an electrician replace the fuse.
Professional Intervention Required
N/A
Warning signal / sound during operation
The battery has dropped below 10.5V (720-012PP) or 21.0V (720-024PP), or the socket isn't making good contact under load.
Recharge the battery and give the contacts a clean.
DIY Safe
N/A
The device keeps switching on and off (as many as 5 times) and then shuts down altogether
Excessive or constant load too high
Switch off device, reduce load, and switch device back on.
DIY Safe
N/A
The inverter cuts out when the consumer switches on
Starting current of the connected device is too high
Compare the device's power draw against the inverter's maximum output, bearing in mind motor-driven devices often need more at startup.
DIY Safe

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How can I use mains-powered gadgets in my motorhome or caravan?

Everything built into a motorhome or caravan - lights, fridge, heating, water pump - normally runs on 12V DC from the leisure battery, which is fine on the move. To use 230V devices such as a hairdryer, coffee machine or laptop charger away from hook-up, you need an inverter, which turns the battery's 12V DC into 230V AC.

Power demands keep growing, and the standard electrical system a vehicle leaves the factory with can quickly reach its limits, so think about how you tour: whether you'll run 230V devices on board, whether batteries need recharging quickly on mains, and how often you drive between stops (which lets the batteries recharge).

A well-planned energy management system should then always have enough power available. Dometic's inverters take 12V or 24V from the battery and supply 230V AC through an ordinary household-style socket - but not every inverter can run every appliance, so choose one that suits the devices you'll use.

Q: My Dometic inverter has failed - where do I get a replacement?

Contact your caravan or motorhome dealer.