Dometic RML 10.4G, RML 10.4P
Official technical documentation and workshop diagnostics for RML 10.4.
Technical Specifications
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | The refrigerator does not work with AC operation | The AC power supply's fuse has blown. | Replace the fuse. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not work with AC operation | The vehicle isn't plugged into the mains (AC) supply. | Plug the vehicle into the mains (AC) supply. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not work with AC operation | The AC heating element is defective. | Contact an authorized service agent. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | The refrigerator does not work with DC operation | The DC cable's fuse has blown. | Contact an authorised service agent - the relay's fuse needs replacing. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | The refrigerator does not work with DC operation | The vehicle fuse has blown. | Replace the vehicle's fuse - check your vehicle's own manual for the right one. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not work with DC operation | The vehicle battery is discharged. | Check the battery and recharge it. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not work with DC operation | The ignition isn't switched on. | Switch on the ignition. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not work with DC operation | The DC heating element is defective. | Contact an authorized service agent. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | The refrigerator does not work with gas operation | The gas cylinder is empty. | Replace the gas cylinder. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not work with gas operation | The gas valve is closed. | Turn the valve to open. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not work with gas operation | There's air in the gas line. | Switch the fridge off and back on, repeating 3-4 times if needed. If there's a stove, try switching that on too and repeating the process. | DIY Safe |
N/A | In automatic mode, the fridge is running on gas even though it's connected to AC power | Mains voltage has dropped too low. | No action needed - it switches back to AC automatically once mains voltage is sufficient again. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator isn't cooling as well as it should. | There's not enough ventilation around the cooling unit. | Check the ventilation grille isn't blocked. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator isn't cooling as well as it should. | The evaporator is iced up. | Check the door closes properly, confirm the seal fits correctly and isn't damaged, and defrost the fridge. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator isn't cooling as well as it should. | The temperature's set too high. | Set a lower temperature. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator isn't cooling as well as it should. | The ambient temperature's too high. | Take the ventilation grille off for a while so warm air can escape faster. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator isn't cooling as well as it should. | Too much food went in at once. | Remove some of the food. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator isn't cooling as well as it should. | Too much warm food went in at once. | Take the warm food out and let it cool before putting it back in. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator isn't cooling as well as it should. | The refrigerator has not been operating for very long. | Give it four or five hours, then check the temperature again. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator door or frozen compartment door does not close | The door handle's jammed on the open side. | Remove the door handle blockage. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator door or frozen compartment door has completely detached from the device | The locking pins have been tampered with or are twisted. | Reinsert the door. | DIY Safe |
Warning | The fridge compartment's temperature sensor has failed | Sensor failure | Contact an authorized service agent. | Professional Intervention Required |
Warning | No AC power connected, or AC voltage at or below 190V | AC power supply issue | Connect the fridge to an AC power source, or switch to a different energy type such as gas or DC. | DIY Safe |
Warning | DC power not connected | DC power supply issue | Connect the fridge to a DC power source, or switch to a different energy type such as gas or AC. | DIY Safe |
Warning | DC overvoltage (>= 16V) | Excessive DC voltage supplied | Contact an authorized service agent. | Professional Intervention Required |
Warning | Tank stop mode active | Ignition switched off for refueling, gas operation blocked | Wait 15 minutes, or switch to a different operating mode. | DIY Safe |
Beep | The door's been open for more than 2 minutes | Door left open | Close the door. | DIY Safe |
Error | There's no connection between the power module and the display | Communication failure | Contact an authorized service agent. | Professional Intervention Required |
Error | No cooling in gas mode | Cooling unit level or burner issue | Check whether the unit's sitting at an angle and level it if needed, then reset the error - contact an authorised service agent if it comes back. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
Error | No cooling in AC mode | AC cooling failure | Check whether the unit's sitting at an angle and level it if needed, then reset the error - contact an authorised service agent if it comes back. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
Error | No cooling in DC mode | DC cooling failure | Check whether the unit's sitting at an angle and level it if needed, then reset the error - contact an authorised service agent if it comes back. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
Error | Gas valve test error | Gas valve failure | Reset the error, and get in touch with an authorised service agent if it comes back. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
Error | Internal communication error | Internal module communication fault | Reset the error, and get in touch with an authorised service agent if it comes back. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
Error | In stand-alone gas mode, the battery packs are running low on charge | Depleted batteries in stand-alone packs | Insert new batteries and then reset the error. | DIY Safe |
Error | Gas lockout after 3 failed ignition attempts | Ignition failure or empty gas cylinder | The gas cylinder's empty - swap it out and reset the error. | DIY Safe |
Error | Gas lock triggered by an internal power-module error | Power module internal fault | Reset the error, and get in touch with an authorised service agent if it comes back. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
Error | Ground contact, gas valve | Electrical grounding fault on gas valve | Reset the error, and get in touch with an authorised service agent if it comes back. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
Error | Ground contact, ignition electrode | Electrical grounding fault on ignition electrode | Reset the error, and get in touch with an authorised service agent if it comes back. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What does the SN climate class on my Dometic RM fridge mean?
Climate class SN (which Dometic calls 'Extended Temperate') means the fridge is designed to work reliably when the air temperature is from +10°C up to +32°C (taken at the bottom vent grille, outside the vehicle).
Q: How well does an absorption fridge cool in hot weather?
In a hot summer the outside temperature often reaches about 32°C - the top of the fridge's rated range - and once it climbs higher, the temperature inside the fridge will inevitably rise. An absorption fridge needs a heat source to move its refrigerant around the cooling unit (which is why it can run on 12V, 230V or gas), so it has to get rid of the heat from its power source as well as the heat drawn out of the food compartment.
To help it in hot weather: park where the fridge vents get as much shade as possible during the day; unclip the outside vent grilles to improve airflow; and if you regularly travel somewhere hot, consider having a ventilator kit (a fan fitted behind the fridge) installed to boost the airflow - Dometic lists these among its accessories.
Q: What can replace my old Dometic RM fridge?
Dometic's 2023 'New for old - simply swap' guide covers both its absorption and compressor fridges, showing which current models replace older ones. It's available from the catalogues section of Dometic's website.
Q: My fridge won't work on mains (AC) power - what should I check?
Check the fuse in the mains supply and replace it if it has blown, and make sure the vehicle is actually plugged into a mains supply. If both are fine, the AC heating element may have failed - that needs an authorised Dometic service centre.
Q: My fridge won't work on 12V (DC) - what should I check?
Possible causes, and what to do: the vehicle's own fuse has blown - replace it (see the vehicle's handbook); the vehicle battery is flat - test it and recharge it; the ignition is off - switch it on. If the fuse in the fridge's DC cable has blown (the fuse on the relay) or the DC heating element has failed, contact an authorised Dometic service centre.
Q: My fridge won't work on gas - what should I check?
Check the gas cylinder isn't empty (change it if it is) and that the gas valve is turned on. If air has got into the gas pipe, turn the fridge off and on again, repeating this three or four times if needed; if a gas hob or cooker is fitted, switch that on, then try the fridge again if needed.
Q: Why is my fridge running on gas in automatic mode when I'm plugged into mains?
The mains voltage is too low. The fridge switches back to mains by itself once the supply voltage recovers.
Q: Why isn't my fridge getting cold enough?
Work through the likely causes: the cooling unit isn't getting enough air - make sure the outside vent grilles aren't blocked; the evaporator has iced up - check the door shuts properly and the seal is seated and undamaged, then defrost the fridge; the temperature setting is too warm - turn it to a colder setting; it's very hot outside - take the vent grille off for a while so hot air can escape faster; too much food, or too much warm food, went in at once - take some out, and let warm food cool before putting it back; the fridge was only switched on recently - give it four to five hours, then recheck the temperature.
Q: WARNING type fault messages
These codes apply to Dometic's 10-series fridges.
- W01: the temperature sensor in the fridge compartment is faulty - contact an authorised Dometic service centre.
- W05: no AC (mains) power, or the AC voltage is wrong - connect a supply, or choose another energy source such as gas.
- W06: no DC power - connect the fridge to DC power, or choose another energy source such as gas or mains AC.
W10 with a beep: the door has been left open longer than 2 minutes - close it. W11: DC overvoltage (above 16V) - reduce the DC supply voltage.
Q: ERROR type fault messages
ERROR-type faults on Dometic's 10-series fridges have to be reset by hand: on the RM10.5T, RMS10.5T and RMS10.5XT, hold the control knob in for 2 seconds; on the RM10.5S, RMS10.5S and RMS10.5XS, press and hold for 2 seconds. You'll hear a beep once the error is cleared.
- E03: the power module and display aren't communicating - contact an authorised Dometic service centre.
- E07, E08 and E09: no cooling in gas, AC (mains) or DC mode respectively - check the fridge (and the vehicle) is level and correct it if needed, then reset the error; if it comes back, contact Dometic customer service.
- E12 (gas valve test failed) and E13 (internal communication fault) both stop gas operation - reset the error, and contact customer service if it returns.
- E14: the battery packs that power it in stand-alone gas mode have run down - fit fresh batteries before resetting the error.
- E50: gas has locked out after 3 failed ignition attempts, usually because the gas cylinder is empty - change the cylinder, then reset the error.
- E51 (gas lock-out from an internal power-module fault), E52 (gas valve earth fault) and E53 (ignition electrode earth fault): reset the error, and contact customer service if it happens again.
