Dometic • Air conditioning roof unit

Dometic Harrier

Official technical documentation and workshop diagnostics for Harrier.

View official manual on manufacturer's site ↗

Technical Specifications

ElectricalRated input voltage: 220 to 240 V AC, 50 – 60 Hz. Rated current cooling: 7.5 A (Lite), 6.9 A (Plus). Rated current heating: 6.1 A (Lite), 5.9 A (Plus). Required fuse: 10 A. Protection class (outdoor unit): IPX4.
Gas Or PressureRefrigerant: R-410A. Refrigerant quantity: 0.650 kg (Lite), 0.750 kg (Plus). CO2 equivalent: 1.357 t (Lite), 1.566 t (Plus). Global warming potential (GWP): 2088.
Capacities DimensionsCompressor cooling capacity: 3600 W. Cooling capacity (ISO 5151): 2413 W (Lite), 3028 W (Plus). Heating capacity (ISO 5151): 2421 W (Lite), 3017 W (Plus). Operating temperature range: –2 °C to +52 °C. Dimensions L x W x H: 997 x 665 x 240 mm (Lite), 1070 x 750 x 280 mm (Plus). Weight: 37 kg (Lite), 44 kg (Plus). Roof thickness: 30 to 100 mm.

Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix

Error Code / IndicatorSymptom / MeaningPossible CauseStep-by-Step DIY FixSuggested Actions
N/A
The roof air conditioner keeps switching itself off
The icing sensor's tripped - the outer temperature's too low, or all the air nozzles are closed.
Check ambient temperature and ensure air nozzles are open.
DIY Safe
N/A
The roof air conditioner keeps switching itself off.
The icing sensor's tripped because the outer temperature's too low, or all the air nozzles are closed.
Ensure outer temperature is within operating limits and open air nozzles.
DIY Safe
N/A
Not cooling well
Could be the unit isn't set to cooling, the ambient temperature's above 52°C or below 16°C, the set temperature's above room temperature, or a temperature sensor/fan has failed.
Set unit to cooling, ensure ambient temperature is between 16 °C and 52 °C, select a lower temperature, or contact an authorised service agent if components are defective.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
Not heating well
Could be the unit isn't set to heating, the ambient temperature's below -2°C, the set temperature's below room temperature, or a temperature sensor/fan has failed.
Set unit to heating, ensure ambient temperature is above –2 °C, select a higher temperature, or contact an authorised service agent if components are defective.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
Low air output
Either something is blocking the air intake grilles, or a fan's faulty.
Clear leaves and dirt from the ventilation grilles. Contact an authorised service agent if a fan's actually faulty.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
Water enters the vehicle
Either the condensation drainage openings are clogged, or the seals are damaged.
Clear the condensation drainage openings, or get an authorised service agent to replace the seals if they're damaged.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
The roof air conditioner won't switch on
Could be no 240V AC supply connected, voltage below 200V AC, a faulty voltage converter or temperature sensor, or too low an electrical fuse.
Check power supply and electrical fuse. Contact an authorised service agent if voltage is under 200 V AC or internal components are defective.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
The roof air conditioner won't switch on.
Could be no supply voltage connected, voltage below 200V, a faulty voltage converter, a faulty temperature sensor, or too low an electrical fuse.
Check power supply and electrical fuses, ensure voltage is above 200 Vw, or contact an authorised service agent for converter/sensor faults.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
The roof air conditioner won't switch off
Either a temperature sensor has failed, or the electrical fuse is the wrong rating.
Check the electrical supply fuse, or contact an authorised service agent.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
The roof air conditioner won't switch off.
Either a temperature sensor has failed, or the electrical fuse is the wrong rating.
Check power supply fuse or contact an authorised service agent to replace the defective temperature sensor.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
Remote control does not register
Either the remote isn't pointed at the air outlet unit's display, or its batteries are flat.
Point the remote at the air outlet unit's display, or fit 2 new type-AAA batteries - note the remote's display can stay bright even once its batteries are low.
DIY Safe
N/A
[Mechanical/Water] Water enters the vehicle
Either the condensation drainage openings are clogged, or the seals are damaged
Clear the condensation drainage openings, or get an authorised service agent to replace the seals if they're damaged.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
[230V AC] The roof air conditioner won't switch on
Could be no supply voltage connected, voltage below 200V AC, a faulty voltage converter or temperature sensor, or too low an electrical fuse
Check power supply and electrical fuses, or contact an authorised service agent for internal voltage converter/sensor issues.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
[230V AC] The roof air conditioner won't switch off
Either a temperature sensor has failed, or the electrical fuse is the wrong rating
Check the electrical supply fuse, or contact an authorised service agent.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Why fit air conditioning to a motorhome or caravan?

Comfort depends on humidity as well as temperature. We can tolerate up to about 26°C (78°F) only when the air is dry; in humid air, around 20°C (68°F) is the comfortable limit. Most people feel best at roughly 18-22°C (64-72°F) with 40-70% relative humidity. Achieving that in a motorhome means cooling the air and drying it at the same time, which needs a compressor air conditioner - systems relying on direct or indirect evaporative cooling are less effective.

Q: What temperature should I set the air conditioning to?

How warm the air feels can differ from what the thermometer says, and humidity makes a big difference. In dry heat, sweat evaporates quickly from the skin and cools us, so we cope with high temperatures; in humid heat, sweat evaporates less, so we feel hotter, and the damp, sticky air can affect circulation and sleep. That's why a good air conditioner needs to lower the humidity as well as the temperature. Dometic suggests around 26°C (78°F) is usually comfortable.

Q: How powerful an air conditioner do I need for hot countries?

If you mostly tour in cooler climates, the air conditioner won't be pushed hard and a lower-rated unit will be enough. If you regularly travel somewhere hot - especially with children or pets on board - don't skimp on output, as a motorhome or caravan can quickly get uncomfortable on a hot day, and when nights stay warm too, you'll only rest properly with an adequately sized unit.

Q: How does motorhome air conditioning work?

Much like a household fridge, but far more powerful: a refrigerant draws heat out of the space being cooled and releases it outside - and in a motorhome or caravan it should also reduce the humidity. Evaporative systems are a common alternative: a roof-mounted unit evaporates water into a filter, and a fan pulls outside air through it so heat is exchanged.

They use little power and are light, but their effectiveness depends on the outside humidity, so performance varies - it falls away above 85% humidity, exactly when cooling is most needed - and they always add humidity inside the vehicle, whatever the conditions. Caravans and motorhomes don't have thick walls like a house, so even well-insulated ones heat up in the sun, easily reaching 30°C or more inside - in temperate climates as well as hot ones.

How hot it gets also depends on window size and number (small windows heat up more slowly than large glazed areas), on whether you're parked in sun or shade, and on whether you air the vehicle out or keep everything shut.

Q: Can I run my air conditioner from a generator?

Yes - a generator gives you a reliable power supply wherever there's no mains hook-up, so you can keep your home comforts when touring off the beaten track. Dometic makes generators for exactly this.

Q: Can I run my air conditioner on a campsite hook-up?

Usually, yes. An air conditioner draws more current at start-up than any other appliance you're likely to have on board, but only for a fraction of a second - it uses far less once it's running. Most campsite hook-ups are protected by a time-delay fuse, so those brief peaks don't normally cause a problem.