Dometic FreshLight 2200
Official technical documentation and workshop diagnostics for FreshLight 2200.
Technical Specifications
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | The roof air conditioner keeps switching itself off | Icing sensor tripped due to low outer temperature or closed air nozzles | Check ambient temperature and ensure air nozzles are open. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No cooling capacity | Not set to cooling, ambient temperature outside the 16-52 °C range, or temperature set too low | Put the roof air conditioner into cooling mode, confirm the ambient temperature's between 16°C and 52°C, and pick a lower temperature. Contact an authorised service agent if it persists. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No heating capacity | Ambient temperature outside the 2-30 °C heating range, not set to heating, or temperature set too low | Only use the heating function below 30 °C ambient; ensure ambient temperature is above 2 °C; select a lower temperature; set the unit to heating; contact an authorised service agent if the issue persists. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Low air output | Ventilation grilles clogged with leaves and dirt | Clear leaves and dirt from the ventilation grilles. Contact an authorised service agent if it persists. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Water enters the vehicle | The condensation drainage openings are clogged | Clear the condensation drainage openings. Contact an authorised service agent if it persists. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | The roof air conditioner won't switch on | Power supply issue or blown electrical fuse | Check the power supply and its electrical fuse. Contact an authorised service agent if it persists. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | The roof air conditioner won't switch off | The power supply's electrical fuse has blown | Check the power supply's electrical fuse. Contact an authorised service agent if it persists. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Why fit air conditioning to a motorhome or caravan?
Comfort depends on humidity as well as temperature. We can tolerate up to about 26°C (78°F) only when the air is dry; in humid air, around 20°C (68°F) is the comfortable limit. Most people feel best at roughly 18-22°C (64-72°F) with 40-70% relative humidity. Achieving that in a motorhome means cooling the air and drying it at the same time, which needs a compressor air conditioner - systems relying on direct or indirect evaporative cooling are less effective.
Q: What temperature should I set the air conditioning to?
How warm the air feels can differ from what the thermometer says, and humidity makes a big difference. In dry heat, sweat evaporates quickly from the skin and cools us, so we cope with high temperatures; in humid heat, sweat evaporates less, so we feel hotter, and the damp, sticky air can affect circulation and sleep. That's why a good air conditioner needs to lower the humidity as well as the temperature. Dometic suggests around 26°C (78°F) is usually comfortable.
Q: How powerful an air conditioner do I need for hot countries?
If you mostly tour in cooler climates, the air conditioner won't be pushed hard and a lower-rated unit will be enough. If you regularly travel somewhere hot - especially with children or pets on board - don't skimp on output, as a motorhome or caravan can quickly get uncomfortable on a hot day, and when nights stay warm too, you'll only rest properly with an adequately sized unit.
Q: How does motorhome air conditioning work?
Much like a household fridge, but far more powerful: a refrigerant draws heat out of the space being cooled and releases it outside - and in a motorhome or caravan it should also reduce the humidity. Evaporative systems are a common alternative: a roof-mounted unit evaporates water into a filter, and a fan pulls outside air through it so heat is exchanged.
They use little power and are light, but their effectiveness depends on the outside humidity, so performance varies - it falls away above 85% humidity, exactly when cooling is most needed - and they always add humidity inside the vehicle, whatever the conditions. Caravans and motorhomes don't have thick walls like a house, so even well-insulated ones heat up in the sun, easily reaching 30°C or more inside - in temperate climates as well as hot ones.
How hot it gets also depends on window size and number (small windows heat up more slowly than large glazed areas), on whether you're parked in sun or shade, and on whether you air the vehicle out or keep everything shut.
Q: Can I run my air conditioner from a generator?
Yes - a generator gives you a reliable power supply wherever there's no mains hook-up, so you can keep your home comforts when touring off the beaten track. Dometic makes generators for exactly this.
Q: Can I run my air conditioner on a campsite hook-up?
Usually, yes. An air conditioner draws more current at start-up than any other appliance you're likely to have on board, but only for a fraction of a second - it uses far less once it's running. Most campsite hook-ups are protected by a time-delay fuse, so those brief peaks don't normally cause a problem.