Dometic • Roof Air Conditioner

Dometic FreshJet FJX

Official technical documentation and workshop diagnostics for Dometic FreshJet FJX.

View official manual on manufacturer's site ↗

Technical Specifications

ElectricalAC input voltage: 220 V … 240 V / 50 Hz … 60 Hz; Rated cooling current: 3.1 A to 7.5 A; Rated heating current: 3.7 A to 6.5 A; Required fuse: Min. 4 A, max. 16 A (depending on model); Frequency: 2.4 GHz; Maximum radio frequency power: 19.14 dBm
Gas Or PressureRefrigerant types: R410a (380 g, GWP 2088) or R32 (320 g to 650 g, GWP 675); High pressure test injection: 4200 kPa (42 bar) for 5 s; Leak detection pressure: 9.81 … 19.61 bar pressurized nitrogen
Capacities DimensionsCooling capacity: 1500 W to 3500 W; Heating capacity: 800 W to 3000 W; Protection class (roof top unit): IPX4; Noise level: < 70 dB(A); Weight: < 30 kg to < 40 kg; Suggested max vehicle length: <= 5 m to > 8 m

Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix

Error Code / IndicatorSymptom / MeaningPossible CauseStep-by-Step DIY FixSuggested Actions
N/A
The high-pressure test has failed
Quick connector is defective, vacuum pump is too weak/defective, or lines are improperly welded
Replace quick connector, use an intact/stronger vacuum pump, isolate leaks with isolation valves, braze defective pipes, and restart the filling process.
DIY Safe
N/A
Display shows: P0
Could be over-temperature or over-current on the IPM module, the IPM itself being faulty, or bad soldering
Contact Dometic and replace the main PCBA.
Professional Intervention Required
N/A
Display shows: P1
Under voltage protection (input voltage below 130V ±5V)
Check the voltage reaching the unit.
DIY Safe
N/A
Display shows: P2
Unit AC over-current protection
Check voltage supply, condenser and evaporator fan motor operation, and compressor current draw. Replace compressor if abnormal, or main PCBA if normal.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
Display shows: P3
Overvoltage protection (input voltage over 270 V ± 5 V)
Check the voltage reaching the unit.
DIY Safe
N/A
Display shows: P4
Discharge tube overheat protection
Check discharge tube temperature via ADB. Replace sensor if abnormal; check coil running temperatures and refrigerant levels for leaks if normal.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
Display shows: P5
Evaporator coil protection (cooling mode) - temperature too low
Check evaporator fan motor and coil temperature via ADB. Replace sensor if abnormal; check coil running temperatures and refrigerant levels for leaks if normal.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
Display shows: P6
Condenser coil protection (cooling mode) - temperature too high
Check for air inlet/outlet blockages, condenser fan motor, and coil temperature via ADB. Replace sensor if abnormal; check running temperatures and refrigerant levels if normal.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
Display shows: P7
Evaporator coil protection (heating mode) - temperature too high
Check evaporator fan motor and coil temperature via ADB. Replace sensor if abnormal; check coil running temperatures and refrigerant levels for leaks if normal.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
Display shows: P9
Compressor drive abnormal or compressor does not start
Contact Dometic. Replace the compressor or the main PCBA.
Professional Intervention Required
N/A
Display shows: E0
Communication failure between display PCBA and main PCBA
Check communication cable connection/damage. Test with a spare display PCBA, or replace the main PCBA.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
Display shows: E1
Room temperature sensor short-circuit or open circuit
Check room temperature via ADB and replace the sensor if abnormal.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
Display shows: E2
Evaporator coil temperature sensor short-circuit or open circuit
Check evaporator coil temperature via ADB and replace the sensor if abnormal.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
Display shows: E3
Condenser coil temperature sensor short-circuit or open circuit
Check condenser coil temperature via ADB and replace the sensor if abnormal.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
Display shows: E7
Outdoor ambient temperature sensor short-circuit or open circuit
Check outdoor ambient sensor temperature via ADB and replace the sensor if abnormal.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
Display shows: E8
Compressor discharge tube temperature sensor short-circuit or open circuit
Check discharge tube sensor temperature via ADB and replace the sensor if abnormal.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
Display shows: E9
A fault in the IPM module or the compressor drive (the protection has tripped 6 times within 30 minutes)
Check voltage supply and fan motor operation. Replace the main PCBA.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback
N/A
Display shows: EA
Current sensor fault or low compressor current draw (< 1 A for > 30 s at >= 35 Hz)
Replace main PCBA if hardware fault; check refrigerant level for leaks and recharge if display occurs after compressor starts.
Professional Intervention Required
N/A
Display shows: EE
An outdoor EEPROM fault - the EEPROM data can't be read
Replace the main PCBA.
Professional Intervention Required
N/A
Display shows: EL
LIN-BUS/CI-BUS communication failure during self-check
Check connection cable for damage, check master control panel connection, or replace the display PCBA.
DIY Safe
N/A
Refrigerant circuit fault or leakage
Damage to the closed refrigerant circuit
Appliance must be checked and repaired by the manufacturer, service agent, or similarly qualified personnel. Do not use naked flames or halide torches to detect leaks.
Professional Intervention Required

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Why fit air conditioning to a motorhome or caravan?

Comfort depends on humidity as well as temperature. We can tolerate up to about 26°C (78°F) only when the air is dry; in humid air, around 20°C (68°F) is the comfortable limit. Most people feel best at roughly 18-22°C (64-72°F) with 40-70% relative humidity. Achieving that in a motorhome means cooling the air and drying it at the same time, which needs a compressor air conditioner - systems relying on direct or indirect evaporative cooling are less effective.

Q: What temperature should I set the air conditioning to?

How warm the air feels can differ from what the thermometer says, and humidity makes a big difference. In dry heat, sweat evaporates quickly from the skin and cools us, so we cope with high temperatures; in humid heat, sweat evaporates less, so we feel hotter, and the damp, sticky air can affect circulation and sleep. That's why a good air conditioner needs to lower the humidity as well as the temperature. Dometic suggests around 26°C (78°F) is usually comfortable.

Q: How powerful an air conditioner do I need for hot countries?

If you mostly tour in cooler climates, the air conditioner won't be pushed hard and a lower-rated unit will be enough. If you regularly travel somewhere hot - especially with children or pets on board - don't skimp on output, as a motorhome or caravan can quickly get uncomfortable on a hot day, and when nights stay warm too, you'll only rest properly with an adequately sized unit.

Q: How does motorhome air conditioning work?

Much like a household fridge, but far more powerful: a refrigerant draws heat out of the space being cooled and releases it outside - and in a motorhome or caravan it should also reduce the humidity. Evaporative systems are a common alternative: a roof-mounted unit evaporates water into a filter, and a fan pulls outside air through it so heat is exchanged.

They use little power and are light, but their effectiveness depends on the outside humidity, so performance varies - it falls away above 85% humidity, exactly when cooling is most needed - and they always add humidity inside the vehicle, whatever the conditions. Caravans and motorhomes don't have thick walls like a house, so even well-insulated ones heat up in the sun, easily reaching 30°C or more inside - in temperate climates as well as hot ones.

How hot it gets also depends on window size and number (small windows heat up more slowly than large glazed areas), on whether you're parked in sun or shade, and on whether you air the vehicle out or keep everything shut.

Q: Can I run my air conditioner from a generator?

Yes - a generator gives you a reliable power supply wherever there's no mains hook-up, so you can keep your home comforts when touring off the beaten track. Dometic makes generators for exactly this.

Q: Can I run my air conditioner on a campsite hook-up?

Usually, yes. An air conditioner draws more current at start-up than any other appliance you're likely to have on board, but only for a fraction of a second - it uses far less once it's running. Most campsite hook-ups are protected by a time-delay fuse, so those brief peaks don't normally cause a problem.

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