Dometic • Air Conditioner

Dometic Blizzard Turbo Split System

Official technical documentation and workshop diagnostics for Blizzard Turbo Split System.

Technical Specifications

Electrical115VAC or 230VAC power supply; Upgraded truck alternator and wiring of 300 amps or more recommended.
Gas Or PressureRefrigerant types: R-134A, R-407C, R-404A, R-417A, R-410A. High pressure safety shutdown threshold: above 425 psi during cooling.
Capacities DimensionsStandard line set length: 6 ft (1.8 m). Extra length line set adjustment: add 0.25 oz per foot over 6 ft. Shorter line set adjustment: decrease 0.25 oz per foot under 6 ft.

Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix

Error Code / IndicatorSymptom / MeaningPossible CauseStep-by-Step DIY FixSuggested Actions
N/A
Nothing happens at all - the internal fan/blower isn't running.
No AC power, tripped circuit breaker, disconnected or incorrect control wiring (e.g., SMXII logic board instead of Q-Power Logic Board), or dead batteries.
Turn on circuit breaker, ensure Qt Control is connected to Q-Power Logic Board, check CXP/TSEP cables and connections, ensure generator/shorepower/inverter is outputting correct power.
DIY Safe
N/A
It won't produce cold air.
Incorrect temperature setpoint, clogged evaporator air filter, switch not set to COOL, evaporator blower or condenser blower not running, or evaporator coil frozen up.
Adjust setpoint, clean or replace evaporator air filter, ensure switch is in COOL mode, check airflow from grilles and under sleeper, clean condenser coil, defrost frozen evaporator by turning off compressor and setting fan to maximum.
DIY Safe
N/A
"LO" then "AC" (Low AC voltage shutdown)
Incoming AC line voltage is too low (<= 104VAC on 115V system, <= 207V on 230V system for > 3 minutes in COOL mode; <= 95VAC on 115V system, <= 200VAC on 230V system in HEAT mode).
Check AC line voltage calibration and verify power source output.
DIY Safe
N/A
"HI" then "AC" (High AC voltage shutdown)
Incoming AC line voltage is too high (>= 127VAC on 115V system, >= 246VAC on 230V system for > 3 minutes).
Calibrate AC line voltage and check incoming power source.
DIY Safe
N/A
"LO" then "FC" / "HI" then "FC" (Frequency shutdown)
Incoming generator frequency is outside acceptable operating limits (< 57 Hz or > 63 Hz).
With the unit running in COOL mode, adjust the generator's output frequency to 60Hz.
DIY Safe
N/A
"HI" then "PS" shows - a high-pressure shutdown while the compressor's still running
Head pressure has climbed above 425psi during cooling, from restricted airflow or a failed condenser fan.
Check the condenser fan is running properly and that the condenser coil is clean.
DIY Safe
N/A
"HI" then "—" shows - a high-pressure shutdown with the compressor off
During cooling, the high-pressure switch or its wiring has gone open-circuit.
Replace the high-pressure switch, or check its wiring for an open circuit.
DIY Safe
N/A
"IS" then "—" / "CS" then "—" / "ES" then "—"
Internal temperature sensor error, compressor discharge temperature sensor failure, or evaporator temperature sensor failure/short.
Replace faulty sensor and associated cabling.
DIY Safe
N/A
"LO" then "ES" shows - an evaporator sensor shutdown
The evaporator has iced up in COOL mode (sensor reading below 34°F).
De-ice the evaporator by running just the internal fan in manual mode.
DIY Safe
N/A
It won't produce warm air
Switch not set to HEAT, dirty evaporator air filter, evaporator blower not running, or fan speed set too high
Confirm the switch is set to HEAT, check and clean the evaporator air filter if needed, confirm the evaporator blower is running (look for airflow at the grill), and lower the fan speed manually - the air should then start warming up.
DIY Safe
N/A
It isn't cooling or heating enough
Thermostat setpoint incorrect, dirty evaporator air filter, dirty condenser coil, or windows/curtains open allowing heat exchange
Adjust the thermostat setpoint as needed, check and clean the evaporator air filter and condenser coil, draw the curtains across the windows and between cab and sleeper, and call a service technician if it's still not right - don't attempt repairs yourself.
DIY Check / Tech Fallback

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Why fit air conditioning to a motorhome or caravan?

Comfort depends on humidity as well as temperature. We can tolerate up to about 26°C (78°F) only when the air is dry; in humid air, around 20°C (68°F) is the comfortable limit. Most people feel best at roughly 18-22°C (64-72°F) with 40-70% relative humidity. Achieving that in a motorhome means cooling the air and drying it at the same time, which needs a compressor air conditioner - systems relying on direct or indirect evaporative cooling are less effective.

Q: What temperature should I set the air conditioning to?

How warm the air feels can differ from what the thermometer says, and humidity makes a big difference. In dry heat, sweat evaporates quickly from the skin and cools us, so we cope with high temperatures; in humid heat, sweat evaporates less, so we feel hotter, and the damp, sticky air can affect circulation and sleep. That's why a good air conditioner needs to lower the humidity as well as the temperature. Dometic suggests around 26°C (78°F) is usually comfortable.

Q: How powerful an air conditioner do I need for hot countries?

If you mostly tour in cooler climates, the air conditioner won't be pushed hard and a lower-rated unit will be enough. If you regularly travel somewhere hot - especially with children or pets on board - don't skimp on output, as a motorhome or caravan can quickly get uncomfortable on a hot day, and when nights stay warm too, you'll only rest properly with an adequately sized unit.

Q: How does motorhome air conditioning work?

Much like a household fridge, but far more powerful: a refrigerant draws heat out of the space being cooled and releases it outside - and in a motorhome or caravan it should also reduce the humidity. Evaporative systems are a common alternative: a roof-mounted unit evaporates water into a filter, and a fan pulls outside air through it so heat is exchanged.

They use little power and are light, but their effectiveness depends on the outside humidity, so performance varies - it falls away above 85% humidity, exactly when cooling is most needed - and they always add humidity inside the vehicle, whatever the conditions. Caravans and motorhomes don't have thick walls like a house, so even well-insulated ones heat up in the sun, easily reaching 30°C or more inside - in temperate climates as well as hot ones.

How hot it gets also depends on window size and number (small windows heat up more slowly than large glazed areas), on whether you're parked in sun or shade, and on whether you air the vehicle out or keep everything shut.

Q: Can I run my air conditioner from a generator?

Yes - a generator gives you a reliable power supply wherever there's no mains hook-up, so you can keep your home comforts when touring off the beaten track. Dometic makes generators for exactly this.

Q: Can I run my air conditioner on a campsite hook-up?

Usually, yes. An air conditioner draws more current at start-up than any other appliance you're likely to have on board, but only for a fraction of a second - it uses far less once it's running. Most campsite hook-ups are protected by a time-delay fuse, so those brief peaks don't normally cause a problem.