Dometic 5 Series
Official technical documentation and workshop diagnostics for 5 Series.
Technical Specifications
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Possible Cause | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
N/A | Ammonia smell / coolant leakage | Damaged cooling circuit | Turn off refrigerator if necessary, avoid open flames and sparks, and ventilate the room thoroughly. | DIY Safe |
N/A | AC Operation: Refrigerator does not work | AC mains fuse is broken or vehicle not connected to AC mains or AC heating element is broken | Replace the fuse, connect the vehicle to AC mains, or contact authorized customer service | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | DC Operation: Refrigerator does not work | DC cable fuse is broken, vehicle battery is discharged, ignition is not switched on, or DC heating element is broken | Replace fuse, check and charge vehicle battery, switch on ignition, or contact authorized customer service | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Gas Operation: Refrigerator does not work | Gas bottle is empty, gas valve is closed, or air is in the gas pipe | Fit a full gas bottle and open the gas valve, then turn the fridge off and back on - up to 3 or 4 times if needed to clear air from the pipe. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently | Insufficient ventilation around cooling unit, evaporator frozen, temperature set too high, ambient temperature too high, or overloaded with hot food | Check ventilation grilles for obstruction, defrost the refrigerator, set a lower temperature, remove ventilation grille temporarily to dissipate heat faster, or remove excess/hot food | DIY Safe |
N/A | Insufficient refrigeration performance | Insufficient ventilation around cooling unit, evaporator iced up, temperature set too high, ambient temperature too high, or overloading with warm food | Check ventilation grilles for obstruction, defrost refrigerator, lower temperature setting, temporarily remove ventilation grille to let hot air escape, or remove excess/warm food. | DIY Safe |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What does the SN climate class on my Dometic RM fridge mean?
Climate class SN (which Dometic calls 'Extended Temperate') means the fridge is designed to work reliably when the air temperature is from +10°C up to +32°C (taken at the bottom vent grille, outside the vehicle).
Q: How well does an absorption fridge cool in hot weather?
In a hot summer the outside temperature often reaches about 32°C - the top of the fridge's rated range - and once it climbs higher, the temperature inside the fridge will inevitably rise. An absorption fridge needs a heat source to move its refrigerant around the cooling unit (which is why it can run on 12V, 230V or gas), so it has to get rid of the heat from its power source as well as the heat drawn out of the food compartment.
To help it in hot weather: park where the fridge vents get as much shade as possible during the day; unclip the outside vent grilles to improve airflow; and if you regularly travel somewhere hot, consider having a ventilator kit (a fan fitted behind the fridge) installed to boost the airflow - Dometic lists these among its accessories.
Q: What can replace my old Dometic RM fridge?
Dometic's 2023 'New for old - simply swap' guide covers both its absorption and compressor fridges, showing which current models replace older ones. It's available from the catalogues section of Dometic's website.
Q: My fridge won't work on mains (AC) power - what should I check?
Check the fuse in the mains supply and replace it if it has blown, and make sure the vehicle is actually plugged into a mains supply. If both are fine, the AC heating element may have failed - that needs an authorised Dometic service centre.
Q: My fridge won't work on 12V (DC) - what should I check?
Possible causes, and what to do: the vehicle's own fuse has blown - replace it (see the vehicle's handbook); the vehicle battery is flat - test it and recharge it; the ignition is off - switch it on. If the fuse in the fridge's DC cable has blown (the fuse on the relay) or the DC heating element has failed, contact an authorised Dometic service centre.
Q: My fridge won't work on gas - what should I check?
Check the gas cylinder isn't empty (change it if it is) and that the gas valve is turned on. If air has got into the gas pipe, turn the fridge off and on again, repeating this three or four times if needed; if a gas hob or cooker is fitted, switch that on, then try the fridge again if needed.
Q: Why is my fridge running on gas in automatic mode when I'm plugged into mains?
The mains voltage is too low. The fridge switches back to mains by itself once the supply voltage recovers.
Q: Why isn't my fridge getting cold enough?
Work through the likely causes: the cooling unit isn't getting enough air - make sure the outside vent grilles aren't blocked; the evaporator has iced up - check the door shuts properly and the seal is seated and undamaged, then defrost the fridge; the temperature setting is too warm - turn it to a colder setting; it's very hot outside - take the vent grille off for a while so hot air can escape faster; too much food, or too much warm food, went in at once - take some out, and let warm food cool before putting it back; the fridge was only switched on recently - give it four to five hours, then recheck the temperature.